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19 Things You Need to Know When You Use a Hair Straightener

17 Aug, 2017
By BeYou[tiful]
It seems simple enough. You are lusting after long, sleek shiny, straight hair so why not invest in a hair straightener? Or you already have one in your arsenal but just cannot get the look right so it sits in your drawer gathering dust? Unless you have had first-hand experience of using a hair straightener there are just so many things that can wrong.

It's not for nothing that many hair stylists are very concerned about at home hair straightening techniques - this is not surprising considering that the biggest problem they face every day is heat damage to the hair. After all, you are clamping your hair at temperature that is very close to burning paper (or hair!).
And how do you know which is the best hair straightener to choose? Which one do you need for your hair type? And which material is best to minimise heat damage?

Here's how to avoid all the pitfalls and get great looking hair - with video tutorials to help you along. Plus, we have some bonus tips on how you can multipurpose with a straightener to achieve different styles - no matter your hair type or texture.

How to Choose the Best Straightener for You

1. Break Out the Piggy Bank
Let's face it - are you like me and just assumed that you could just buy any straightener which looked like it would perform okay and most importantly, suited your pocket? Wrong! The biggest worry most hair stylists face is damaged hair caused by continued heat styling. So they are just a little insistent that you make sure you are using the best straightener your wallet can afford.

Hair pros warn against cheaper models as they have a longer recovery time - anything up to 90 seconds. This means you are losing heat as you go along and it won't be evenly distributed between the plates. Certain materials can also deteriorate with time. And it's a good idea to look out for an automatic shut off feature which is great for girls on the go.

Most importantly, you need to choose the right straightener for your hair type.
2. Which Material Should I Use?
  • Ceramic - Generally more budget friendly, ceramic is best for finer to normal hair as it is gentler and softer so you will suffer less damage.  They are less likely to cause tangles, leave the hair straight and shiny, and should remove most of the frizz.
     
    Be sure to invest in full ceramic plates as the ones with a ceramic coating can chip and snag your hair. And you need to be careful of hotspots developing over time as the ceramic plates do break down after a while.
     
    Pro tip: Hotspots cause uneven distribution of heat so the straightener becomes less efficient over time.
  • Titanium - If you are looking for quick heat, this is the way to go. Titanium straighteners use negative ions to generate heat so are better for the ends of your hair due to less heat transfer. Negative ions are good for flyaway hair which has a tendency to frizz.
     
    If you have long breaks between hair dresser visits this could be the option for you. They are also more lightweight and durable than other materials. However, titanium irons are so efficient you need to be careful with hair that damages easily.
  • Tourmaline -  If you like bright, shiny, expensive things then this option is for you. The latest and greatest innovation, tourmaline (like titanium) produces negative ions when in use so it makes it possible to use less heat and therefore cause less damage. The negative ions actually trap moisture into the hair, combining reduced heat with a higher moisture level to make hair look shiny, a nice bonus.
Some straighteners use a mixture of materials to get the best of a number of worlds. Tourmaline is often used as a coating on ceramic to offer a smoother and more durable experience.
3. To Ion or Not to Ion?
If you are like me and cannot remember anything about ions from your science class, here is a quick refresh. If you have a tendency towards flyaway or frizzy hair that has a lot of static and gets a bit out of control, you have a lot of positive ions in your hair. Negative ion technology has the effect of neutralising all this hectic-ness and calming down the hair. Also referred to as nano technology just to confuse us all.
4. What About Hair Type?
  • Fine hair is more prone to heat damage so you need to choose a straightener that allows temperature flexibility. You should never go above 165 degrees Centigrade, and preferably keep it at a much lower temperature to avoid any damage. However, if you find yourself going over and over a spot, the temp is too low and repeated application will cause even more damage. Another way to handle it is to get a straightener with a digital readout so you can always see the temperature. The last thing you want to do is to fry your locks. For this reason, consistency in a straightener is king (you don't want any hot spots developing).
  • Coarse and natural hair need a good straightener that gets hot enough to handle the mane. You don't want to have to go over and over the pieces to get them straight. Hair pros recommend that you never exceed 185 degrees (even though most straighteners do have higher settings) to avoid damage. You need something that is consistent to avoid snagging. Consider either titanium where the surface will always be smooth, or a ceramic coated with tourmaline, silicon or one of the many other materials used to cover plates to deliver consistent heat.
  • Damaged hair needs a straightener that is super gentle on the hair. You don't want to use much heat at all and should not hold the straightener in place for too long. The only way to address damaged hair is a good trim, even if you have to go with shorter hair for a while.
Related: How to Choose the Best Hairstyle to Perfectly Suit Your Face Shape
5. What Size Straightener Do I Need?
The size depends upon the type and length of hair you have - however styling preferences could mean you have specific needs so none of these are set in stone. A quick guide to the best size: -

127mm mini straightener - Best for pixie cuts and fringes.
254mm straightener - Best for short, fine hair.
318mm straightener - Best for shoulder length, medium thick hair.
381mm straightener - Best for thick, coarse, curly hair longer than the shoulders.
508mm straightener - Best for thick, very long hair. Pro tip: This size does not allow you to reach the root properly so is better for styling rather than straightening.

Our product picks:

TRESemmé Salon Professional 220 C Digital Hair Straightener with frizz and static reduction plates, digital heat control and automatic safety shutoff.

Wahl Cutek Ceramic Professional Hair Straightener with superslim plates and nanosilver technology.

TRESemmé Salon Professional Ceramic Styler 230 with advanced ceramic heating and auto shut off.

Braun Satin Hair 3 ST310 Hair Straightener with ceramic plates and extra width for longer and thicker hair.

Carmen Infinti + one Ehc Professional Straightener, a two in one pack with ionic technology.

ghd Original IV Styler, award winning ceramic styler for all hair types and lengths.

How to Use Your Straightener

6. Prep Your Hair Properly
Would it surprise you to know that the prepping actually starts in your shower? Like me, you are probably thinking it starts with a heat protectant. Duh!
 
  • Use a smoothing shampoo and conditioner. Let's get one thing out there. No product can straighten hair but there are things you can use to help the process. Anything that promises straighter or sleeker (or more conditioned) hair would be suitable. You should aim for deeply conditioned and moisturised hair. Use a detangling brush with wide bristles to spread the conditioner evenly through the hair strands followed by a gentle rinse.
  • Don't towel dry your hair. The last thing you want to do is to roughen up the hair and encourage curls to form or static to develop (remember the negative ions!). Rather gently pat the hair dry. Pro Tip: For coarser natural hair, using an old T shirt tends to calm and flatten hair more effectively.
Our product picks: Schwarzkopf Bonacure Moisture Kick shampoo and conditioner, TRESemmé Thermal Recovery Nourish & Renew shampoo and conditioner and Pantene Moisture Renewal Revitalizing shampoo and conditioner.

Related: 7 Easy Ways Guaranteed to Help You Get Longer, Stronger Hair
 
7. Always Use a Heat Protectant Spray or Serum
Look for a protective primer that also helps tame and smooth hair-it'll create a humidity shield, defend hair against high temperatures and make your styling routine easier. Products with protein-rich soybean extract are best for a silky finish. Try to avoid an oil or silicon products as these can weigh the hair down and can quickly cause build up on the straightener. Argan oil can still be effectively used for thicker, coarser hair.
You should apply the protectant while the hair is still wet to avoid it getting clumpy. Gently use a wide toothed comb it spread it evenly through the strands to dramatically reduce the potential frizz factor.

Our product picks: TRESemmé Heat Defence Styling Spray, ghd Style Heat Protect Spray L'Oréal Studio Line Hot & Straight Spray and Argan Oil Heat Defence Leave in Spray.
8. Time for The Blow Dry
You've probably heard more than enough of what heat damage can do to the hair - drying it out and making it all frizzy which is totally opposite to the sleek finish you want to achieve. Well - did you know that blow drying is actually the biggest heat damage culprit? We are all guilty of turning the dryer up to the highest heat setting to get it the deed done as fast as possible. It's far better for your hair to turn it down to a lower setting and invest those extra 5 minutes in sleeker, healthier looking hair.

Hair pros recommend that its best to rough dry your hair first - this is an industry term where you shake the dryer back and forth over the hair - to get it about 80% dry. It's very important to keep the nozzle facing downwards all the time to prevent frizz from forming. Did you know that this is to keep the hair cuticles - which naturally fall downwards - flat? If you dry upwards it lifts these cuticles and hair becomes frizzy and rough to the touch.

Once it is nearly dry, blow it out smooth to give it more direction and shape. Many pros prefer boar bristle brushes to smooth and polish - plastic or nylon brushes can cause static.
9. Set the Right Temperature
Avoid setting the temperature any higher than 185 degrees. Many straighteners have higher heat settings but what most of us don't realise is that these are intended for in salon use on professionally keratin treated hair.

Hair actually burns at the same temperature as paper - 233 degrees. 185 degrees should give you more than enough heat to style without coming close to actually damaging your strands. For those with fine hair the temperature should be between 150 and 165 degrees.
10. Separate Your Hair into Sections
Many people complain that hair straightening takes too long. This is because they try and work randomly instead of splitting the hair into sections. How many sections is really going to depend upon the thickness of your hair. You should aim for each section to be 3 to 5 cm thick so they are easy to pass through the straightener.

Start by separating the hair down the middle at the back of the head and bring it forward. If your hair is thick, you will then have to separate each of the side sections into two to make a total of four - pin or clip the top sections onto the top of your head to keep them out of the way. If you have really thick hair you might have to section even more.
11. Straighten with Long Even Strokes
The key is to create tension when straightening - pulling your hair tight will really help the whole process. Starting at the roots, clamp the straightener over each section and while holding the hair straight gently move the straightener down to the tips. Don’t stop or try and do little bits of hair at a time as this will leave kinks in the hair - the last thing you want.

It's best not to go board straight. Instead of going straight down each section, rather finish off with a little inward C at the ends to gently curl your hair under and inwards towards your face.

Curly haired girls may find they need to pull and repeat the process a few times before they achieve the desired effect. But watch out - repeating too many times can also cause damage to the hair.

If your hair is particularly curly, a good tip is to use a straightening comb on each section to help detangle and flatten the hair as the straightener does its job.
12. Watch Out for The Sizzle
A little steam is to be expected with moisturised hair but as soon as you hit a sizzle or a nasty smell stop immediately. You could be burning your hair. Evaluate the situation. Is your hair bone dry? If you are absolutely sure it is, it could be product build up on your hair. Unlike curling, you should not apply any products to dry hair before using a straightener (other than your heat protectant). Because the straightener clamps down tight on the hair, there is nowhere for the product to go so it lands up damaging the cuticles. 

If you are clear on these two things, then your straightener is too hot. Reduce the temp, wait a while for the straightener to cool down and do over again.
13. Finishing Off
You have two potential steps here. If you want to help the setting process, you can choose to set your hairdryer on cold at the lowest speed and with a large flat brush take a minute to quickly blow dry out each section straight.

Or if you are happy with your look, you can skip this step and go straight to a setting spray. Finishing products are your best friends particularly if you have frizzy or curly hair. You already know that silicon or oil based products are a no-no. So what can you use? A light hold hairspray is best so your hair doesn't get sticky or stiff. Let your hair cool down before you apply it - you don’t want your hair to 'cook' the product.
14. How Often Can You Straighten?
If you have wavy, healthy hair, you can straighten every two to four days, as long as you use safe straightening techniques and condition regularly.

If you're moving from chemical straighteners to natural textured hair, try to stick to no more than one straightener treatment every two weeks. You can increase this to once a week or so as your hair becomes healthier.
15. Keeping your Hair Straightener Clean
A build-up of gunk on the plates is inevitable. To keep it pristine, use a facecloth soaked with some rubbing alcohol on a cool straightener (alcohol is flammable so you don't want to use it on a hot one!).

Styling Tips: Curling, Beach Waves, Volumising & Crimping

16. Style Tip: Curling your Hair
While this looks fairly easy, those of you who have tried it before know that it does take a little practice. But once you know how, it is actually pretty hard to go wrong.

Just remember the effect you get will depend upon the size of the straightener as well as the length of your hair. A smaller straightener will make tighter curls - the opposite is true of a large one.

Separate the hair into 3 to 5cm sections as you would if straightening. The smaller the section the tighter the curl. Clamp the straightener at the bottom of the hair and roll upward so the hair wraps around the straightener like it would a curling iron. Next, twist the straightener so it is almost in a knot at the top, and the hair has to wrap around itself to get out of the straightener.

Let the straightener sit for one second, then pull it out. Voila - a perfect curl!
17. Style Tip: Simple Beach Waves
If you are looking for something less than a curl, but with more than just volume, then a beach wave is the way to go. It’s the best answer when you have little time but still want some bounce in your hair.

Use a texturizing spray before applying heat, and follow up with a gentle hairspray to ensure your waves stay in place for the whole day.

There are three ways to achieve his look.

Simply twist sections of hair into tight swirls and then run your straightener over top to lock in a soft wave.
You could also braid your hair the night before and follow up with the straightener over each braid for bouncier, larger waves.

Or you can use the straightener to mimic the effect you achieve when you are running a scissor blade over the ends of a ribbon.  As you pull away from your scalp, your hair gets a little bit of movement that looks like waves. The result isn’t bouncy as much as it is voluminous.
 
18. Style Tip: Pump Up the Volume
Using a straightener on flat lifeless hair to build up some much-needed volume is super simple. It's all about lifting the hair at the roots. Simply clamp the straightener as close to the roots as you can and pull the hair upwards towards the ceiling.

When you are halfway through the strand, change direction and pull downwards to the floor, curling in the ends of each section towards the face.

Related: Surprisingly Easy Hairstyles That Make You Look Super Cool

19. Style Tip: The Ultimate Crimp

A crimp is more like a curl that doesn't make a full loop. Instead, upon close inspection it looks like a zigzag. And a big bonus - it is less labour intensive than curling.

Start with your straightener at the roots of your hair and guide it down while twisting your wrist back and forth every inch. You can also increase the spacing between crimps for a loose, subtle interpretation and start further down each strand if you only want crimped ends.
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