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Microblading, Microshading or Microfeathering: Which is For You?

25 Oct, 2022
By Andie Reeves
It’s hard to remember a time in the beauty world where brows weren’t having a huge moment. From the bold brows of the 80s to the overplucked ones of the 90s to the Insta-perfect brows of now; the focus on eyebrows is clearly here to stay.

The perfectly sculpted and crisp-edged brow is still pretty on-trend. Thanks to procedures like microblading, it’s easier now more than ever for anyone to achieve this look; not just professional makeup artists and full-time Instagram influencers.

The huge drawcard of getting semi-permanent eyebrow makeup done (besides looking permanently selfie-ready) is not having to fuss with your brows every morning, saving you a good five to ten minutes every day. There used to be only one option for semi-permanent make up and that was a thick brown stripe tattooed under your brows. That permanent marker look is so 1998 though, and with techniques like microblading, microfeathering and microshading there is no need for your brows to look anything other than uber natural (but in a perfect way).

But what is the difference between all these complicated sounding techniques and how do you know which is the right one for you? Read our guide to find out everything you need to know about microblading, microshading and microfeathering, and decide whether you need to book an appointment for one of them ASAP or not…

Read More. How To Choose The Best Eyebrow Shape To Perfectly Suit Your Face

Microblading

You don’t have to be in the beauty industry to know what microblading is. The brow technique hit the mainstream a few years ago and has dominated beauty bloggers’ social media feeds ever since.

What it’s all about

Microblading is a form of semi-permanent make up that basically tattoos super fine lines into your brow, imitating real hairs. It’s semi-permanent because it only tattoos the superficial layers of skin.

Microblading is done with a pen, the tip of which is made up of up to 15 super fine needles. The pen makes thin incisions, like paper cuts, which pigment is deposited into. If this sounds like it would be painful you’re right, however a numbing cream is typically applied first.

For the first few days after getting your microblading done your brows will scab slightly and look a bit red and raised, so don’t book an appointment for too soon before a big event. You will have to gently wipe them with distilled water and a cotton pad daily and apply aftercare cream during the healing phase, but after about ten days they should be good enough to show off.

A month after your appointment you will need a touch up, after which they will last between 12 months and 3 years.

Why you should do it

People love microblading because of how natural the results look. The pen strokes look just like your brow hairs and blend in pretty seamlessly. Be warned that most people leave their first appointment thinking their microblading has been done too dark. This is totally normal and the pigment will fade, in fact most people ask for them to be darkened during their touch up appointment.

Back in the day permanent make up used to be just that, permanent. Now, however, a treatment like microblading will fade away after up to 3 years. So if, God forbid, the over-plucked brows of the ‘90s have a comeback at some stage in the future you won’t have to worry about never being able to jump on the trend bandwagon.

...And why you shouldn’t

Because it involves tiny cuts, the microblading process leaves you at risk of infection in the hours and days following. The aftercare process is therefore super important and a bit high maintenance. However, after the first ten days you are free to live your life as normal. It is not recommended you do any heavy exercise or go swimming for the first seven days.

A bad microblading job isn’t going to wash away with a wet wipe so it’s important that the technician gets it perfect first time. A lopsided, uneven or just plain bad microblading job is a real risk. Make sure you do your research before you make your booking, ask for recommendations and look at photos of their (hopefully) happy clients.

If you have oily skin the strokes from the microblading pen may appear less crisp and thin as they would on people with more dry skin. Oily skin may also need to re-do their brows after as soon as one year, while your dry-skinned friends could last up to three. If you struggle with oily skin and are worried that your microblading procedure would look smudged on you, you might want to try microshading instead.

Read More. Everything You Need to Know About Eyebrow Microblading

Microshading

Microshading, also known as powder or ombré brows, is one of the new variations on microblading to emerge. It gives a soft powdered look, similar to what you would achieve with artfully applied brow powder. Instead of the stroke motion that microblading offers, a stippling motion is used, creating lots of tiny dots.

What it’s all about

The process, aftercare and lifespan of a microshading job is similar to that of microblading. Instead of dragging the needle pen along your skin to make long, hair-like incisions, the pen is moved in a stippling motion. This results in lots of little dots being made, giving you the look that you’ve filled your brows in with powder.

Why you should do it

Microshading is great for those of us who want a bit more than the natural look of microblading. Microblading and microfeathering are effective but subtle, while microshading will make you look like you are wearing makeup 24/7. For the more bare-faced beauties amongst us that might sound too intense, but for those of us who love the dolled up look it’s perfect. Technicians will often ombré the effect too, with most of the tiny dots focused on the outer two thirds of your brow (the middle and tail).

A tattoo on oily skin tends to have slightly blurred edges, meaning the thin lines of microblading will probably heal as thicker, less natural lines. The subtly dotted colour that microshading provides could give you a more natural finish if you have oilier skin.

...And why you shouldn’t

Microshading is not for the woman who considers some tinted lip balm her daytime makeup routine. The result definitely makes you look like you are wearing makeup. If you fill your brows in every day then microshading will shave precious minutes off your morning routine, however if you are not a fan of the super ‘done’ look then microshading is probably going to be too much for you.

Other than the difference in finish, the cons of microshading are the same as those that come with microblading. It’s a semi-permanent procedure that can look bad if not done by a highly skilled professional. Another downside of treatments is that they are costly; a microshading session can cost around R2200 and higher. This is probably not what you would spend on brow powder over three years; however, it’s a pretty good price on waking up with flawless brows every day.

Read More. Clever Insider Tips on How to Make Your Eyes a Lot Bigger

Microfeathering

If the sounds of both microblading and microshading scare you but you still like the idea of not having to fill your brows in everyday then microfeathering could be the answer. This treatment works with the brows you already have, extending the look of them with pigment to give your natural look more oomph.

What it’s all about

Unlike microblading that covers the whole brow area to create fullness, microfeathering is more for those with naturally full brows that have sparse areas. The procedure was created and trademarked by eyebrow artist Kristie Streicher, who is the brains behind the brows of stars like Mila Kunis, Mandy Moore and Gwyneth Paltrow. Microblading involves creating a sense of fullness with totally new ‘hairs’ using a pen needle and pigment, while microfeathering is more for those who have naturally full brows with a few sparse areas. The procedure is the same, creating incisions and filling them with pigment, but the ‘hairs’ are extensions of your actual brow hairs.

Why you should do it

Although microblading is praised for its realistic-looking results, some still find a microbladed brow too ‘perfect’ looking. Microfeathering is a great way to add a bit more volume to your brows without it looking overdone. It’s also ideal for filling up gaps in your brow. As with ‘blading and ‘shading, this needs to be done by a well-trained professional, and will cost you a pretty penny.

...And why you shouldn’t

The finished look of microfeathering is ultra laid-back and effortless looking brows, however the procedure is actually quite high maintenance. Because it works with your own brows you will have to grow them out first, so the tweezer-happy among us might struggle with this period. The feathered lines are much thinner than microbladed lines too, so its staying power is shorter and will probably only last you about a year.

You will need two sessions, the first of which involves targeting the more dense area of your brows. Six weeks later, once this has totally healed, your second appointment will involve adding more strokes, depending on how the previous ones have settled into your skin. Microfeathering is also not as readily available in South African salons as microblading and microshading.

Read More. Eyelash Treatments You Need to Get Amazing Lashes When Mascara Is Not Enough

Many brow technicians often choose to give you a combination of these techniques depending upon their assessment of how best to fill out your brows based on what you want, so make sure you ask the question about what they are planning before you start.
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