The Benefits of Sunscreens Uncovered

• Fact or fiction? Your sunscreen may not be giving you the amount of protection it claims to offer.
  
  The American NPO Consumer Reports released a report a few years back showing the results of a four-year study showing that nearly half of the sunscreens tested didn’t offer the protection stated on the bottle.
  
  And a number of years ago, we had a similar controversy about sunscreens with the CANSA seal. So how do we know our sunscreen will work properly?

 

• Use a trusted sunscreen. Most countries have their own regulations, and the American FDA’s regulations are a lot less strict that the European Union regulations.
  
  In South Africa, we mostly import sunscreen brands from the EU, which has super-strict guidelines about testing and claims. They created the European Commission Recommendation sunscreen standard that says sunscreen needs to offer both UVB (the SPF bit) and UVA protection in a ratio of 3 to 1, as well as being photostable (doesn’t degrade when exposed to sunlight), and highly water resistant. You will know a sunscreen is EC-certified when you see the circle with UVA or the words, "Broad Spectrum" on the packaging.
  
  Basically, most European brands of sunscreen in SA will include the UVA circle or call out “Broad Spectrum”, including: Nivea, Bioderma, BioNike, Eucerin, Avène, etc.
  
  CANSA have also stepped up and all SA-manufactured sunscreens that get the CANSA SunSmart Choice Seal (CSSS) also adhere to the EU standards. On their list are Everysun, Tropitone and the Dis-Chem Sunlab range.
  
  In a nutshell: Study the packaging before you buy any sunscreen, and don’t buy unless you see these symbols!
  
  Read More. 12 Important Things You May Not Know About Sunscreen (But Need To)

SPF Meaning Explained

 

• Do you know what SPF actually means? Do the maths: Sun Protection Factor (SPF) is calculated by multiplying the time it takes your body to burn when exposed to sunlight without sun protection.
  
  So you’re meant to measure how long it takes for your skin to turn pink or change colour (you can check by removing your watch strap after a few minutes). Then multiply this number with the SPF on your product. For example, my skin turns pink after 5 minutes. My sunscreen has an SPF of 15. 5 x 15 = 75. This gives me a safety net of 75 minutes in the sun before I burn… in theory!
  
  This assumes you’re using enough and reapplying enough, which unfortunately most people don’t, and land up getting sunburn.

 

• Rather think about SPF by understanding the amount of UVB rays it shields from your skin:
   
  • SPF 15 blocks 93% of UVB rays
   
  • SPF 30 blocks 97% of UVB rays
   
  • SPF 50 blocks 98% of UVB rays
   
  • SPF 100 blocks 99% of UVB rays
    
    EU sunscreens say SPF 50+ for this reason, as the difference between SPF 100 and SPF 30 is relatively small and you’re blocking out at least 97% of rays. We don’t recommend you go below SPF 30. 

The Ugly Truth: UVA and UVB Light

• UVB light rays are the main culprit that cause sunburn when they’re absorbed in the upper layers of the skin, and are implicated in cancer.

 

• UVA light rays penetrate deeper and cause cell inflammation and unravel the collagen and elastin matrix that forms part of the protective shield within the skin (causing premature ageing and wrinkles as well as skin cancer – particularly melanoma).
  
  These rays make up the bulk of the sunlight you see and because they penetrate glass, plastic and even mist and cloudy weather (which is why you often burn worst on overcast days or in the shade).
  
  In sunny South Africa, it’s pretty much mandatory to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen or sunblock to protect you against both UVB and UVA rays all year round.
   

Chemical vs. Mineral Sunscreens – How They Differ

The sunscreen you're using contains either mineral or chemical filters. Be aware that they work differently to protect against sunburn and skin damage.
 

• Chemical sunscreens work by reflecting and absorbing UV rays before they damage your skin. The best to look out for include the following ingredients: Mexoryl XL, methoxycinnamate, Tinosorb S and M. If a product is not labelled as mineral, then it’s definitely a chemical sunscreen. These make up most of the sunscreens available.

 

• Mineral sunscreens containing titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide, like the ones the surfers wear, literally sit on top of the skin and act as a total sunblock to bounce away sunlight. Also referred to as physical sunscreens, they offer 100% coverage and newer, sheer formulas no longer leave behind a chalky finish on the skin. They are also natural sunscreens so are better for your skin and more environmentally friendly.
  
  If you have very sensitive skin and are prone to acne, eczema or rosacea, or are choosing a sunscreen for children, chemical sunscreens can irritate skin or even cause an allergic reaction. In that case, mineral sunscreens are probably your best bet. But you need to be extra-vigilant in applying and re-applying. And choose a brand that is hypoallergenic.  

 

• The safest bet for ‘normal’ skin types is to use sunscreens with both chemical and mineral filters so you get optimal protection against both UVA and UVB rays. Look for that UVA circle or the word ‘broad-spectrum’ on the packaging.
   

Best chemical sunscreen picks:
Cetaphil Sun SPF50+ Gel-Cream, an oil free formulation that is quickly absorbed leaving the skin with a matt finish and very high sun protection. Contains vitamin E to nourish the skin and is suitable for even the most sensitive skin.
Nivea Sun Protect & Moisture Sun Lotion SPF50+ Sunscreen with very high UVA/UVB protection and intensive, long-lasting moisturisation for skin that feels soft and hydrated.
Bionike Defence Sun 50+ Very High Protection Fluid Lotion with a triple action - broad-spectrum UVA-UVB protection, protection from free radicals, plus Pro-Repair Complex to strengthen natural protection and skin repair mechanisms.
La Roche Posay 50+ Anthelios Ultra-Light Invisible Body Mist - broad spectrum and very high protection (UVA, UVB) and also helps protect against infrared and pollution damages. Very water resistant. Invisible. Rapid absorption.

Best mineral sunscreen picks:
BioNike Defence Sun SPF30 Mineral Cream for Face & Body with mineral filters for fair, hypersensitive or damaged skin. Protection from UVA-UVB rays and long-term damage with PRO-REPAIR Complex to strengthen DNA protection and skin repair mechanisms.
BioDerma Photoderm Mineral Fluid SPF50 with very high UVA/UVB protection and 100% mineral filters for sensitive and allergy prone skin. Protects cells with antioxidant Vitamin E. Ultra-light, fluid texture, colourless. Prescribed by dermatologists.
Oh Lief Natural Body Sunscreen SPF30, a CANSA-approved mineral sunscreen including a broad-spectrum physical sunblock using non-nano zinc oxide, and is free of harsh synthetic ingredients.

Best chemical and mineral sunscreens for face:
La Roche Posay Anthelios Uvmune 400 Fluide Invisible SPF50+, an ultra-light fluid that is non-greasy with an invisible finish for normal, combination or oily skin.
Eucerin Sun Fluid Even Pigment Perfector SPF50 for all skin types that helps prevent and reduce dark sun spots that lead to hyperpigmentation.
Cerave Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF50, with moisture boosting ingredients that don’t cause irritation and breakouts, or leave a white cast.
Dermopal Sunscreen SPF 30 helps prevent blemishes, dark spots and premature skin ageing with no white cast. A non-comedogenic, anti-pigmentation, brightening, moisturising sunscreen suitable for all skin types.
Eucerin Sun Sensitive Protect Dry Touch Gel-Cream offers high UVA UVB protection and HEVIS light defence. It also supports the skins own DNA repair mechanism and its Oil Control technology mattifies and leaves an immediate dry touch finish on skin.
Clinique SPF50 Mineral Sunscreen Fluid For Face, an ultra-lightweight 100% mineral sunscreen that is virtually invisible and ultra comfortable, even for sensitive skins.
Avène Very High Protection SPF50+ Mineral Cream for broad-spectrum UVA and UVB mineral protection for hypersensitive, fragile skin.

Read More. Want Glowing Skin? You Need to Exfoliate Like A Pro

The Basic Stuff: How to Apply Sunscreen

Now before you start patting yourself on the back, consider this…
 

• You need to use enough: You can’t afford to slip up on the sunscreen. A shot glass full is recommended for a single top-to-toe application for average-sized adults. That means if you’re tall or generously proportioned, you need to use a tot-and-a-half. It’s better to apply too much than too little.
  
  For kids, it’s great to get the coloured or white sunscreens, so you can see where you have applied, or missed a spot. That’s also why it’s better to use SPF 50+ rather than SPF 15 for added protection.

 

• You need to reapply: And no matter if it says highly water-resistant (there’s no such thing as waterproof!), reapply every two hours. If a sunscreen says it offers “all day protection”, don’t believe it or you could pay the price with a nasty sunburn. All sunscreen wears off. Don’t forget to reapply!

 

• You need to rub it in: Sunscreen works best when it’s applied in a uniform layer. Sprays are great for reaching awkward places, but you can’t simply spray it on and leave. Spray from about 10cm away from your skin, and then rub it on so you’re properly covered.

 

• You need to start afresh: Always buy a new tube or bottle of sunscreen at the beginning of summer. Chances are last season’s tube has been rolling around in your cubbyhole or in your beach basket and exposure to heat might have caused it to be less effective than it used to be.
   

  Food for Thought

  
  

  • It may sound contradictory to everything else we’re saying, but there is such a thing as a good tan, believe it or not! A tan is your body’s way of protecting itself from the sun. Sunlight triggers melanin production, which creates an ‘umbrella’ effect to protect individual cells from ultraviolet (UV) rays. With more sun exposure, melanin gets darker, and this is what leads to a darkening of skin (tanning).
    
    Unfortunately, that colour is not enough to protect your skin from damage which, at least, causes it to age well before its time, no matter how dark your skin, and it’s worse the fairer you are.

   

  • And, yes, people of colour need to use sunscreen. Black skin only has a natural SPF of 8. No matter how dark your skin, it can still burn, and you will see the damage largely as dark blotches of pigmentation, which is a big concern for many darker-skinned women. Everyone should wear sunscreen when out in the sun, no matter how dark your complexion.

   

  • 80% of the signs we see as ‘ageing’ – blotchy pigmentation, dark marks, wrinkles, dry, leathery skin, loss of elasticity, etc., is actually sun damage. If you don’t believe this, just look at the areas hiding under your clothes or not exposed to direct sunlight – your breasts or the insides of your forearms. See how smooth and youthful, hardly any lines or wrinkles, they appear, compared to your chest and face, which get the most sun. At its most serious, sun damage leads to skin cancer, the most common form of cancer in people (See below).

The Golden Rules: How to Tan Safely

• Timing is everything: Stay out of the sun between 11 am and 3.30 pm, when the sun is directly overhead and at its peak.

 

• Good shade: Find a tree, or an umbrella, and be careful of light reflecting of concrete or beach sand. You can still get sunburned.

 

• Damage doesn’t happen overnight. Sun damage is cumulative – the skin never forgets a burn and also won’t let you get away with cheating on sun protection.

 

• Skins that have suffered trauma, such as acne and/or other scarring have to be especially vigilant about covering up. These areas will be more prone to sunburn, so dab on concealer and an extra dot of sunscreen to avoid darkening from sun exposure.

 

• Keep it under your hat: Make a fashion statement with a gorgeous hat. It’s great for hiding from the sun and also to protect your hair. Make sure it has a tight weave. If you can see sunlight through it, that’s not enough protection.

 

• Good shades: It’s worth investing in a good pair of sunglasses that offer 100% protection against UV rays. (The label will read UV400). Cheap shades won’t filter out harmful light, but rather allow the pupils to dilate, allowing more UV light to enter the eye, which is dangerous and can cause eye diseases such as cataracts, etc.

 

• After-sun care is equally important: if you do burn or want to prolong your colour, an after-sun product with moisturisers, antioxidants and soothing ingredients such as aloe vera and glycerine is essential. If you’re fresh out, you can use Bulgarian yoghurt to soothe the burn and inflammation. Our picks are Nivea Sun After Sun Moisture Spray and Sunlab After Sun Cooling Gel.

Read More. Valuable Tips on How to Get a Beautiful, Healthy Tan – Safely

The Hard Facts: Skin Cancer Causes And Symptoms

• Skin cancer is the most common type of cancer in South Africa. At last count, skin cancer accounts for 30% of new cases of cancer are reported each year. Globally, basal cell carcinoma (the most common form of skin cancer) has tripled in women under 40 in last three decades. It is usually caused by cumulative exposure, including in winter.

 

• Studies show that 80% of our lifetime’s exposure to UV occurs by the age of eighteen (all those afternoons playing sport in the hot sun – campaign with the schools to have the sport early in the morning). Also, a serious blistering sunburn as a child greatly increases the risk of skin cancer later on in life. The good news is that 90% of skin cancers can be cured if detected and treated early.

 

• According to dermatologists, malignant melanoma (the deadly form of skin cancer) is the fastest growing form of skin cancer among black population in SA. Bob Marley died of a melanoma that started under his toenail. Left untreated until it was too late, it then spread to the rest of his body.

 

• South Africa, Australia and New Zealand jockey for No. 1 position as world leaders in skin cancer, particularly deadly melanoma. Why? Our position in the Southern Hemisphere, and the hole in the protective ozone layer above Antarctica, which opens up more in summer, means that we get more direct exposure to the sun’s harmful UV rays than anyone else on the planet. Need more convincing?

 

• Skin cancer, especially malignant melanoma, thrives when ‘office skin’ gets a two-week blast in your December holidays.

 

• Everyone should avoid using sunbeds and sunlamps at all costs. They blast pure UVA rays at you – yes, the ones we need to avoid. They are dangerous and research indicates that they double your risk of developing melanomas. Contrary to a popular myth, sunbeds do NOT prepare your skin for sun exposure!

 

• All South Africans should check their skin regularly for ANY changes, that may be symptoms of skin cancer – unusual and irregular marks, new bumps or scaly patches, sores that don’t heal and changes in moles. An annual medical check-up should include a skin check to detect possible skin cancer early as it’s normally successfully treatable at this stage. Everyone exposed to the sun is at risk of developing skin cancer whether you have light or dark skin. For more information, the public can contact CANSA toll free on 0800 22 66 22 or see their ‘Be Sunsmart’ tips.

 

• As if we don’t have enough to worry about, researchers at the University of Copenhagen have recently raised concerns about certain ingredients in sunscreens and other products. These ingredients interfere with the body’s endocrine system by decreasing or increasing (depending on the chemical) the production of hormones, and can have far-reaching effects on the developmental, reproductive, and immune system, according to Well & Good. Read the full article here.
  
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