The Good Stuff – Best Skin Care Product Ingredients For You

The currently trending face care products include niacinamide, bakuchiol, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, and peptides – all for good reasons – but there’s still a bunch of other ingredients that are highly effective. So don’t be tempted to follow the herd, as your skin may also need a couple of those already proven to help sort out your specific skincare problems.

Also trending is a welcome return to minimalist routines with the emphasis on preventative skincare as well as barrier repair. It is now all about simplicity and focus, zeroing in on high-quality, targeted skincare product ingredients that fix multiple skin concerns without complexity. Resist the urge to add too many ingredients just because they sound good…

Skincare product ingredients fall into four major categories – the skin vitamins, essential fatty acids, the skin acids, and humectants – each of which focus on specific facial skin problems or needs you may have…

The Skin Vitamins

You can probably guess that Vitamins are way up there on our face care essentials, but some - especially the antioxidants - are more vital than others...

Our problem is that we are literally oxygen thieves - we steal it from the atmosphere so that we can stay alive. But unfortunately, in using oxygen, we produce free radicals (or reactive oxygen species).

Add to this the daily total onslaught of pollution, smoking, sun, ozone, stress, intensive exercise, and so on, and we get an unrelenting bombardment of free radicals on our body. Unless they are stopped, these damage our cell walls and collagen. These faulty cells then copy themselves, carrying the damage in their blueprints. Imagine a photocopy that has slightly blurred edges. If you copy that copy, it will get slightly more blurry, and so on. Our best defence against these tiny terrors is antioxidants or free radical scavengers, especially when it comes to our skin.

In his book, The Antioxidant Miracle Dr. Lester Packer, aka "Dr. Antioxidant" because of his decades of research into antioxidants, explains that they work in synergy as a network in the body, rather than singly, as well as recycling one another, and that "the sum is greater than its parts", and that they can greatly enhance the power of one another.

For example, Vitamins E and C work together - vitamin C protects the cell's membrane while vitamin E encounters radicals and neutralises them. In this process it itself then becomes a radical, but vitamin C recycles it back into its antioxidant form. It's a continuous cycle.

So which vitamins are good for your specific skin problems and concerns?

 

Vitamin A For Skin (Retinol/Bakuchiol)
Skin Care Products Good For: Anti-ageing, softening wrinkles, helps clear acne-prone skin, hyperpigmentation and acne scars

Starting with A - vitamin A is 'the skin vitamin' - important both as an anti-ageing vitamin and for the treatment of acne. It helps control the rate of skin cell and collagen formation and regulates the health of skin cells, preventing them become abnormal (ageing or cancerous). A lack of vitamin A will result in dry, scaly skin.

Retinol, derived from Vitamin A, is arguably the most powerful ingredient for skin renewal. It increases cell turnover, stimulates the production of elastin and collagen, and can even be used to fade pigmentation. Products that contain retinol may target acne or eczema, wrinkles and sun damage.

Maryam Zamani, a leading aesthetic doctor, emphasises that all retinols are not, however, created equal, and it's therefore very important that you use the correct percentage for your particular skin concern, avoid the sun, as well as ensuring that the packaging of the cream keeps it away from air and light, which destroy vitamin A.

Bakuchiol, retinol’s younger sister, is much gentler on the skin and can even be used on sensitive skins. However, it’s been shown to have great potential to deliver anti-aging effects similar to retinol.

Our Vitamin A skin care product picks:
Neutrogena Retinol Boost+ Intensive Night Serum releases highly concentrated pure retinol to combat visible signs of skin ageing. Reduces deep wrinkles, accelerates collagen production and stimulates cell renewal.
L'Oréal Skin Revitalift Laser Retinol Serum with retinol plus hyaluronic acid and aloe vera to effectively reduce wrinkles, even deep ones.
The Ordinary Retinol 1% In Squalane, a high strength retinol serum to improve the appearance of fine lines that come from a loss of collagen and elastin, while evening out skin texture and tone.
Avène Cleanance AHA Exfoliating Serum for oily, acne-prone skin includes a trio of actives (including retinaldehyde) to fight acne bacteria, rejuvenate skin, unblock pores and help reduce dark marks.
Skin Republic Pure Retinol Serum 0.2% to visibly soothe fine lines and wrinkles and increase skin’s firmness.
SkinCeuticals has a range of retinols increasing in strength – Retinol 0.3 to start, progressing to Retinol 0.5, (with rave reviews!) and finally Retinol 1.0 once your skin is fully acclimatised to the ingredient.
Avène Dermabsolu Concentrated Resculpting Serum with bakuchiol and pro ceramides. Highly concentrated “serum-in-oil” technology to redefine facial contours and boost radiance. Illuminates thanks to the presence of mother-of-pearl. Ideal for sagging, mature skin.

Medical-strength retinoid (tretinoin) creams such as Retin-A, Renova and Differin are available via prescription from your dermatologist.

If you are a beginner to retinol and retinoids, but are keen to try them, it’s worth reading this very comprehensive guide on their plusses and pitfalls from skincare expert Renee Rouleau.

And if your skin is inclined to sensitivity, consider starting off with a fairly new ingredient, Bakuchiol, that is hailed as a gentler bio retinol alternative. You can find it in Nivea Expert Lift Cellular Serum for more sensitive skins.

CAUTION: It is vital that you use very good UVA/UVB protection SPF 50+ when on any vitamin A skin treatment as it makes your skin very sun-sensitive. For this reason, it’s also best you use retinol only at night.

Retinols also don’t pair well with AHAs and BHAs - or Vitamin C - so use these ingredients in the morning. You can however add hyaluronic acid to your night time retinol routine if you find it too drying.

Read More: Foods And Supplements Good For Healthy Glowing Skin (And Bad Foods To Avoid)

 

Vitamin B For Skin (Niacinamide and Panthenol)
Skin Care Products Good For: Anti-ageing. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) for dark marks and hyperpigmentation, even skin tone, fine lines and to strengthen skin barrier. Panthenol (Vitamin B5) to increase hydration and softness.

The various B vitamins (B3, B5 especially) have wonderful anti-ageing properties. Because they are intensely hydrating and anti-inflammatory, they help to boost skin elasticity, and brighten and even skin tone.

For those who find exfoliators like glycolic and salicylic acid too harsh for their complexion, try vitamin B3, or niacinamide (a derivative of niacin). Unlike other chemical exfoliators, B3 is less acidic - causing little to no irritation. It’s been shown to strengthen skin’s moisture barrier and reduce the appearance of dark marks, discoloration and blotchiness.

Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) is moisturising powerhouse that promotes soft, supple and comfortable skin. It’s hydrating and soothing properties soothe dryness, itchiness and redness, so it’s especially good for dry and sensitive skins.

Our Vitamin B skin care product picks:
Try Skin Republic’s Serum with 10% Niacinamide plus 1% Zinc.
La Roche Posay Mela B3 Dark Spot Serum With Melasyl + Niacinamide to target hyperpigmentation.
Olay Total Effects Instant Smoothing Serum which contains VitaNiacin Complex (Vitamin B3, E and pro-vitamin B5).
La Roche-Posay’s Hyalu B5 Serum combines moisture-binding hyaluronic acid with panthenol and madecassoside for superior hydrating and soothing activity, so it's great for drier, ageing skin.

 

Vitamin C For Skin (L-Ascorbic Acid, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Palmitate)
Skin Care Products Good For: Antioxidant, protecting and repairing skin, boosting collagen, skin lightening and brightening, radiant glowing skin, clearing dark spots, acne scars, hyperpigmentation, anti-ageing, wrinkles and redness.

Vitamin C not only boosts your immune system, its real strength, according to Journal of Applied Cosmetology, is in its effectiveness as an antioxidant – it squelches free radicals which are involved in the development of everything from hyperpigmentation (freckles and dark spots) to skin cancer. It’s also well-known for giving dull skin a radiant healthy glow.

But the key to effectiveness is the use of a concentration of 10 percent vitamin C or higher, usually only available in serums. If you have sensitive skin, you’re probably thinking NO at this point – vitamin C can sting!

There’s good news though – Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a more stable form of Vitamin C which almost every skin can tolerate – from dark to light – and even those with sensitive skins. It’s great for eliminating blackheads, sorting out sun spots and protecting the skin from environmental damage and signs of ageing.

Our Vitamin C skin care product picks:
Although pricey, SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic with both Vitamins C and E plus Ferulic Acid, another potent antioxidant, is considered the gold standard in this category and has tons of raving fans.
Vichy LiftActiv Vitamin C Brightening Skin Corrector Serum which contains 15% vitamin C, vitamin E, Hyaluronic Acid and polyphenols.
Garnier Skinactive Even Matte Vitamin C Booster Serum evens and brightens your skin tone by reducing dark spots, acne marks, and reversing sun damage.
Skin Republic Vitamin C 20% Serum visibly brightens and evens skin tone. Assists in reducing the appearance of dark spots.

Read More. The Best Skin Treatment Products You Need to Use at Every Age

 

Vitamin E For Skin
Skin Care Products Good For: Antioxidant, superb moisturising, strengthening skin barrier, glowing skin, anti-inflammatory, soothes and softens wrinkles, dry or sensitive skin, plus healing scars and stretch marks.

Vitamin E is C’s partner for life, as they recycle one another and together boost both of their antioxidant benefits. It has also been a popular ingredient in hand, body and face creams for ever because of its fantastic hydrating properties.

It not only hydrates, but actually locks in moisture and helps to maintain the skins barrier function. It also helps to boost collagen production, reducing fine lines and wrinkles. One of those essentials for maintaining good skin health and condition…

Our Vitamin E product picks:
Clinique Moisture Surge Hydrating Supercharged Concentrate with Vitamins E and C, aloe water and hyaluronic acid for an instant moisture boost that lasts up to 72 hours.
Avène Hydrance Aqua-Gel, a hydration powerhouse including the renowned Avène thermal spring water, hyaluronic acid and Vitamin E.
Cetaphil Moisturising Cream, a dermatologist-backed blend of niacinamide (vitamin B3), panthenol (vitamin B5), glycerine and Vitamin E for dry, sensitive skin.
Bio Oil pairs Vitamin E with Vitamin A plus plant-based oils to not only nourish skin but also even out skin tone and reduce scars and marks.

 

Vitamin K For Skin
Skin Care Products Good For: Lightening dark under-eye circles and dark spots, even skin tone, brighter glowing skin.

If you suffer with dark rings under your eyes, Vitamin K is for you. Some experts believe the cause may be tiny, leaking capillaries under the skin. And since vitamin K is known for its ability to aid in blood coagulation, it makes sense that it may help correct the discoloration. A great anti-inflammatory, it’s also perfect for treating sun spots and helps to speed up the skin’s healing processes.

Our Vitamin K skin care product pick:
ISDIN Isdinceutics K-OX Eyes not only includes Vitamin K but also peptides to stimulate collagen production and the super hydrator, hyaluronic acid, to smooth away fine lines and wrinkles.

 

Flavonoids (Quercetin) For Skin
Skin Care Products Good for: Antioxidant, protection against UV radiation, anti-inflammatory, great for sensitive skin.

Flavonoids are powerful antioxidant chemicals naturally found in many species of plants. They are rich in antioxidants because they produce pure oxygen during photosynthesis, but this leaves them vulnerable to oxidation themselves, so the antioxidants protect them. Found especially in berries, green tea, red grape polyphenols, chocolate, onions, wine and gingko biloba.

Quercetin is a flavonoid that is often used in skin care as a gentler alternative to retinol. Not only does it have similar anti-ageing benefits, but is also an anti-inflammatory so is perfect for sensitive and acne-prone skin.

Our Quercetin skin care product pick: pHformula SOS Repair Cream with shea butter, panthenol and rooibos extract with 2 flavonoids (quercetin & luteolin), for high levels of hydration, barrier protection and skin repair. Suitable for all skins, but especially dry and sensitive.

 

Vitamin Q (Q10 or Coenzyme Q10) For Skin
Skin Care Products Good For: Antioxidant, energizing and repairing skin cells, minimises ageing and wrinkles, radiant skin, helps prevent sun spots and hyperpigmentation.

Q10 or Coenzyme Q10 (aka Ubiquinone Q10 or vitamin Q) is produced by the body and is an essential trigger – the spark plug - without which cells cannot produce energy. This powerful antioxidant also strengthens the skin’s natural immune system and is now heralded as a veritable wrinkle eraser.

As with most things, CoQ10 levels taper off as we age, and through oral supplementation and skin creams, it may help us to stave off premature ageing. It works to repair and regenerate your skin at a faster rate to help you stay looking young, radiant and energised.

Our Q10 skin care product picks: Find it in the Nivea Q10 Anti-Wrinkle range, Eucerin Q10 Active (also with Vitamins C, E and H) and Skin Functional Anti-Oxidant and Anti-Ageing Boost with Co-Enzyme Q10 + Peptides..

Read More. Are You ABSOLUTELY Sure You Are Using the Best Skin Care Products for Your Skin Type?

Essential Fatty Acids (Omega 3 & 6, Ceramides, Peptides and Squalene)

Skin Care Products Good For: Strong and healthy skin barrier, hydration, restores dry skin, softens fine lines, soothes eczema and rosacea.

Essential fatty acids (EFAs) are vital for healthy skin. They make up the membranes of cell walls and a lack means cells dry out too quickly, and this can also contribute to eczema. They can be found in seeds (sesame, flax, pumpkin, sunflower) nuts or their cold-pressed oils, or get them from oily fish sources, such as salmon, tuna, etc.

Omega 3 & 6 For Skin
Omega-3 oil is one supplement you should take orally every day – for all sorts of health reasons. It will help soothe your skin as well, especially if it is very dry, rough or inflamed (eczema, etc.). Omega-3s are a natural part of the outer layer of the skin, and serve to reinforce and smooth the skin's surface, increase hydration and prevent moisture from escaping.

Omega 6 can dramatically improve the skins moisture retention and is best used together with Omega 3.

Our Omega skin care product picks:
Vital’s Omega 3 & 6 Capsules are a daily healthy skin and body must-have.
Portia M Marula Skin Oil dramatically improves moisture levels and boosts overall skin health while reducing signs of wrinkles, ageing and uneven skin tone.
Eucerin AtoControl 12% Omega Lotion with regenerating Omega-6 fatty acids (Evening Primrose Oil and Grape Seed Oil) to intensively care, calm and soothe dry, irritated skin and control flare-ups.

 

Ceramides For Skin
Ceramides are best sourced from your skin treatment. Like Omega-3’s, these waxy lipid molecules are naturally present in the skin’s outer layer, and play a key role in the skin’s barrier function.

When applied in a cream, ceramides help increase skin hydration and promote optimal barrier function, acting as the mortar in the “brick wall” of your skin, repairing and strengthening the skin barrier.

Our Ceramide skin care product picks:
Eucerin DermoPurifyer Adjunctive Hydrating Care with ceramides and panthenol to soothe the dryness and redness often associated with acne-prone skin.
Avène Revitalising Nourishing Cream is an ultra-rich ceramide cream for tired, dehydrated skin.
SkinCeuticals uses ceramides, fatty acids and Vitamin E in Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2, which is ideal for mature, dehydrated skins.
Lamelle uses patented Ceramide-P to rebuild the skin barrier in the Serra range - ideal for eczema-prone, dry, sensitive skin.
And let us not forget Elizabeth Arden’s legendary Ceramides range, also with Vitamin C.

 

Peptides For Skin
Peptides can be described as protein building blocks, so they can speed up wound healing and boost collagen production, but also have a sort-of wrinkle-reducing Botox effect when applied in a cream.

Our peptide skin care product picks:
Olay Regenerist Advanced Anti-Ageing Microsculpting Cream with advanced Amino-Peptide Complex II, actively hydrates to improve elasticity and firm skin for a lifted look.
The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + HA Serum is multi peptide serum including both amino and hyaluronic acids, to reduce the appearance of crow's feet, and improve skin elasticity and enhance firmness.

 

Squalane/Squalene For Skin
Squalane is saturated fatty acid with antioxidant properties that has generated quite a bit of buzz in recent years. It’s a powerful moisturiser that helps to improve smoothness and suppleness and support a healthy skin barrier. Squalene with an ‘e’ delivers the same benefits but is a plant derived option.

Our Squalane skin care product pick: La Roche-Posay Effaclar H is ideal for a sensitive or oily skin weakened by over-drying skincare products. It instantly hydrates and helps to restore the skin’s protective barrier. Contains niacinamide to visibly reduce redness.

Read More. The Best Serums Will Help You Reach Your Dream Skin (Yes, Really)

The Skin Acids (AHA, PHA, BHA, Azelaic, Benzoyl Peroxide)

Skin Care Products Good For: Exfoliating, pore cleaning, reducing lines and wrinkles, skin brightening, helping clear acne, pimples, dark marks, and hyperpigmentation, clear skin..

Who would have thought acids would be good for your skin? Lactic acid gave Cleopatra her legendary complexion, thanks to her regular baths in asses’ milk. This alpha-hydroxy acid, found naturally in sour milk, loosens and exfoliates old, dead skin cells to effectively bring fresh, young skin cells to the surface.
 
AHAs – Alpha Hydroxy Acids For Skin
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (including glycolic, lactic, kojic, and mandelic acids, plus fruit acids like citric, malic and tartaric) - are fantastic exfoliators. Because they are water soluble, they exfoliate the surface layer of the skin so evening out skin tone and texture and leaving the skin clearer, smoother, brighter and with a healthy glow.

One of the most popular AHAs is glycolic acid, which is able to penetrate damaged skin to speed up new cell production and so effectively treat acne, hyperpigmentation and sun damage. Not to mention how smooth your skin will feel when it whisks away those fine lines and wrinkles!

Our AHA skin care product picks:
NeoStrata Enlighten Dark Spot Corrector to address dark marks such as freckles, age spots, and hyperpigmentation.
L’Oréal Glycolic Bright Serum is clinically proven to instantly brighten skin and reduce dark spots. After one use, skin is luminous and visibly glowing. With continued use, dark spots and imperfections are reduced.
The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner. Anti-aging powerhouse for daily use to smooth skin texture, even skin tone, and enhance luminosity.⁠⁠
Bioderma Sébium Serum for the treatment of acne and enlarged pores. Also reduces dark marks and smooths fine lines.

 

PHAs – Polyhydroxy Acids For Skin
PHAs are actually a new type of AHA that provide similar benefits to other alpha hydroxy acids, without causing the skin irritation you can get with AHAs. They’re ideal if your skin is a little dry and sensitive but you still need and want to exfoliate. They can even be used for sensitive skin conditions like eczema or atopic rosacea.

Our PHA skin care product pick: NeoStrata PHA Daily Moisturizer will gently exfoliate while providing skin barrier support for sensitive skin.

BHAs – Beta Hydroxy Acids For Skin
BHAs are oil soluble, so they penetrate deeply into the skin to remove impurities and unclog pores for a clearer skin. Beta hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid help to reduce bacteria and thoroughly clean the skin, so they’re great for getting rid of pimples and blemishes, and brightening dull skin.

Our BHA product picks:
Find salicylic acid in anti-acne face care products like La Roche Posay Effaclar K, Garnier Pure Active, BioNike Acnet, Vichy Normaderm Probio-BHA Serum and Clinique’s legendary Clarifying Lotion 2 and Anti-Blemish Solutions. La Roche Effaclar Ultra Concentrated Serum includes LHA, a derivative of salicylic acid and a powerful anti-dark spots complex to address pigmentation issues.

 

Azelaic Acid – Dicarboxylic Acid For Skin
Your new favourite ingredient for those with more sensitive inflammatory skins. Azelaic acid gently calms redness and irritation from acne and rosacea, reduces dark marks and uneven skin tone, while gently brightening and smoothing the skin texture at the same time. Find it in The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%.

 

Benzoyl Peroxide For Skin
An organic acid in the peroxide family, benzoyl peroxide is another common anti-acne ingredient. Often used in conjunction with, for example salicylic acid, it helps to reduce the amount of bacteria on the skin and has a drying effect. Find it in the Benzac range.

Read More. Your Complete Guide: The Best Treatments to Get Rid of Acne Scars & Dark Spots

Humectants (Hyaluronic Acid, Urea, Glycerine) - Moisture Magnets for your Skin

Skin Care Products Good For: Moisturising dehydrated skin, anti-ageing, wrinkles, plump glowing skin

Humectants (such as hyaluronic acid, urea and glycerine) are like moisture magnets for the skin. They attract water, plump up the skin and help it retain moisture.

Hyaluronic Acid (HA) For Skin
Hyaluronic Acid is the mother of all humectants, holding 1000 times its own weight in water. It’s the body’s own natural hydrator, and is an excellent moisturiser when applied on your skin in addition to helping repair the skin’s barrier. An absolute must-have for that youthful, dewy and glowing skin we all want and love.

Our hyaluronic acid product picks:
Find it in the Eucerin Hyaluron Filler range, Vichy Mineral Booster 89, La Roche Posay Hyalu B5 Serum (with Vitamin B3) and L'Oréal Dermo Expertise Revitalift Filler Hyaluronic Acid Serum. SkinCeuticals also uses it in its Hydrating B5 range.

Both urea and glycerine are powerful hydrators and moisturisers, and are often used as part of the base of many moisturising products.

Urea is also often used for dry and itchy skin conditions related to psoriasis and eczema.

Glycerine is a humectant that draws moisture from the air to hydrate and soften dry skin and reduce fine lines, and is included in many moisturising products. It also helps shield the skin, strengthen the moisture barrier and improve the skin’s resiliency.

Safe Mineral Sun Protection

Remember that the good work you put in to getting the best skin ever means absolutely zilch if you don’t wear a sunscreen. If you do nothing else, make this a must-have part of your morning routine. But what can you use to keep your skin safe?

Zinc oxide isn't just good for baby bottoms! It's a natural mineral that protects the skin from both UVA and UVB rays by creating a physical barrier that reflects the rays rather than absorbing them.
 
Combined with Titanium Dioxide, you're covered for both UVA and UVB protection. If you suffer from rosacea or redness of any kind, check that your sunscreen contains this.
 
Our mineral sunscreen product picks: La Roche Posay Anthelios Dry Touch Fluid SPF50 and Clinique SPF50 Mineral Sunscreen Fluid For Face.

Read More. Are you Sure Your Sunscreen Is REALLY Protecting You?

The Bad Stuff – Skin Care Ingredients to Avoid

So that's a list of some of the good stuff. What ingredients should you definitely avoid?
 

• Don't be fooled by words such as 'natural' or 'organic' - a product only needs about 30% natural ingredients to be labelled natural. And sometimes natural isn't necessarily the best option - mercury is natural, after all. Always check the ingredients, especially if you have a specific skin condition.


• Some ingredients are known to be comedogenic - in other words, tending to cause blackheads by blocking the pores of the skin - so check that your product is non-comedogenic.
  
  If you are prone to blackheads or acne, try to avoid any kind of mineral oil, often referred to as petrolatum, paraffin oil or liquid petroleum, because of its occlusive effect. These can aggravate acne and dryness and even interrupt cell renewal. Some oils, like coconut oils or certain synthetic oils, can become solid at room temperature and cause breakouts.


• Because ingredients are usually listed in order of concentration, the first 5 ingredients will tell you the most, but it’s probably wise to check further down the list as well.


• Phthalates and fragrance (often listed as parfum) are known to cause allergic reactions, while sulphates strip the skin of its natural oils and can destroy the skin’s protective barrier, leading to dryness and irritation.


• Parabens are effective preservatives that may mimic oestrogen. Many manufacturers have removed parabens from their products and replaced them with phenoxyethanol due to public pressure, even though the levels in skincare are much lower than the paraben used to preserve some foodstuffs. While phenoxyethanol is a safer alternative, it can still be irritating to the skin.


• Other preservatives such as formaldehyde should be avoided at all costs because they have been linked to endocrine disruption, as well as allergic reactions. Be cautious about your Brazilian hair straightening treatment. Stick to one a year, if you must, as they use formaldehyde to break the bond that makes your hair curl.

Read More: At-Home Skincare Devices That Will Give You Salon Quality Results