The Blotting Paper Test to Check your Skin Type

1. Remove all makeup and wash your face well.
2. Let your skin return to its natural state for at least 2-3 hours.
3. Now take a piece of blotting paper and gently press over various parts of your face.
4. The blotting paper will pick up oily patches and remain unblemished on normal or dry skin.
5. If you see any flaky areas, you have dry skin.
6. You could have an oily T-zone with dry cheeks - then you have combination skin.

Now that you know your skin type, you are faced with a bunch of skin care products to choose from. What ingredients should you look out for that will work best with your skin type? And which ones should you avoid in your skincare routine?

Here are all the dos and don’ts for each skin type, plus the best skin care products in South Africa for each - whether you have oily, normal, combination, acne-prone, dry or sensitive skin…

The Best Skin Care Products And Routine For Normal Skin

You most likely have normal skin if your skin is not oily or dry and if you do get small spots of oily or dry skin, they are quick and easy to sort out. Normal skin has a fairly even skin tone with no major spots or marks and your pores are small and barely-visible. This type of skin needs minimal and gentle treatment, but does still require ongoing care.

Truly normal skin is the exception rather than the rule (very few people have perfect skin), and many people who have this skin type deal with normal skin plus a concern or two, like other issues that are unrelated to type, such as uneven skin tone, aging, sun damage, and the occasional pimple.

NORMAL SKINCARE ROUTINE DON'TS

• Avoid products for other skin types: oily skin care products will dry the skin out while dry skin care products have too much moisture and can start clogging your pores. Look out for lightweight formulas which have gentle but effective ingredients. Nothing too thick or heavy which will make the skin feel greasy.
   
• Even if your skin isn’t temperamental, you should try to avoid:
  • Harsh cleansers and scrubs - anything that damages your skin barrier leaving it vulnerable to developing many skin conditions should be tossed.
  • Excessively drying products, like at-home chemical peels or high-percentage acne treatments.

NORMAL SKINCARE ROUTINE DOS

Most importantly, you must give your skin the vital, healthy ingredients it needs to stay young, remain smooth and even, and prevent clogged pores. 

Since your skin can’t handle oily or dry skin products, instead build your routine around specific skin care concerns you may have – like aging, dullness, uneven skin tone or redness.

• Antioxidants are important for all skin types, as they protect your skin from free radical damage which breaks down collagen and elasticity. Every antioxidant performs a different role so look for the ones that can address your specific skin concern - Vitamin A for anti-aging, Vitamin C for brightening and evening out skin tone, Vitamin E for moisturising, and the multifunctional Vitamin B3 (niacinamide) to improve both the skin’s texture and tone.
  
  Our product picks: The industry’s gold standard SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic (pricy but worth it), Vichy LiftActiv Vitamin C Brightening Skin Corrector Serum, Nivea Q10 Anti-Wrinkle Pore Refining Day Cream SPF15, Clarins Multi Active Jour Day Cream with antioxidants and L'Oréal Revitalift Night Cream with pro-retinol, a form of vitamin A.
• All skin, regardless of type, needs to be exfoliated regularly to remove any dead skin cells or other debris that may build up. The best exfoliant for normal skin is an alpha hydroxy acid, which is a gentle chemical exfoliant (like glycolic and lactic acids). An AHA exfoliant also reduces the appearance of wrinkles and increases collagen production.
  
  Our product picks: Crème Classique Glycolic Acid Peel and NeoStrata Smooth Surface Glycolic Peel Pads.
   
• Red, blotchy complexions can be triggered by many different factors like rosacea, sun, extreme weather, stress, over exfoliating and allergies, amongst others, and can affect all skin types. This is when your skin cries out for skin-calming products like Bioderma Sensibio AR Anti-Redness Care.

Read More. These Powerful Ingredients Are the Secret to A Better Skin

The Best Skin Care Products And Routine For Dry Skin

Dry skin has a parched appearance and tends to flake easily. It is prone to wrinkles and lines due to inadequate production of sebum (oil) by sebaceous glands as well as its inability to retain moisture as the skin’s barrier response has been weakened. You will find that you often have problems in cold weather, which dries it out even further.

It’s important that you don’t mistake dehydrated skin for dry skin. Dry skin lacks oil or sebum (which you are normally born with), while dehydrated skin lacks moisture in the top layer of the skin. You can have oily skin which is dehydrated, and if you have dry skin, it can also be both dry and dehydrated.

DRY SKINCARE ROUTINE DON'TS

Steer very clear of any irritating or harsh ingredients, hot water or abrasives.

• Any bar soaps (even beauty bars) and foaming cleansers which include sulphates can be incredibly drying for your skin. If it foams or lathers even a tiny bit, it’s too harsh for your skin.
   
• Products high in alcohol which can suck the moisture out of your skin (if the ingredients list says “SD alcohol” or “alcohol denat,” then toss it).
   
• Clay or charcoal masks (they’ll strip your skin’s natural oils).
   
• It is important for you not to over-exfoliate even in cases of extreme flaking, as this only dries out the skin further. Avoid harsh and irritating scrubs or cleansing brushes which can compromise the skin’s barrier even further.

DRY SKINCARE ROUTINE DOS

To best take care of dry skin, it is important to look for ingredients that help the skin to repair, protect and maintain your moisture barrier.

• Constant protection in the form of a thick moisturiser by day and a nourishing moisture-rich cream by night is essential. Look for super-hydrating ingredients like glycerine, hyaluronic acid, and shea butter, and if they include the moisturising antioxidant, Vitamin E, even better (see antioxidants under normal skin).
  
  Our product picks: Cetaphil Rich Hydrating Night Cream with glycerine, hyaluronic acid, Vitamins C and E and an olive extract, Eucerin Q10 Active Anti-Wrinkle Day Cream for Dry Skin with Vitamins C, E and H, or if you need a built-in sunscreen then try their Eucerin Hyaluron Filler Day Cream SPF30 with hyaluronic acid, and Vichy Nutrilogie 2 - Intense Cream for Very Dry Skin enriched with essential fatty acids, plant oils and shea butter.
   
• Apply multiple moisturisers right after a bath or shower (when your skin is still moist) to keep the skin as hydrated as possible. For very dry skin, consider the use of overnight moisturising masks and intensive serums including ingredients such as hyaluronic acid (which helps your skin hold onto water), or natural oils such as jojoba and olive oils to supplement your moisturisers.
  
  Our product picks: L'Oréal Revitalift Filler Hyaluronic Acid Serum, Vichy Mineral 89 Booster with hyaluronic acid, Clarins SOS Hydra Mask for overnight use and Soil Jojoba Oil.
   
• Use mild cream cleansers or micellar water to cleanse your face, such as Eucerin Dermatoclean Mild Cleansing Milk and Bioderma Sensibio H2O Micellar Water Makeup Remover Cleanser.
   
• Gentle exfoliators using mild AHA ingredients (like lactic acid which gently ‘unglues’ dead skin cells) are the most suitable for dry skins, although you should not use more than once per week to avoid causing unnecessary irritation and dryness. Try Dermalogica Skin Resurfacing Cleanser with gentle lactic acid or Clarins Gentle Peeling Smooth Away Cream.
   
• Dry skins can become irritated and sensitised, particularly in colder weather, so you may need some help from moisturisers which have anti-inflammatory properties. We recommend Avène Tolerance Extreme Emulsion.

Read More. The Most Important Skin Care Products You Need to Use at Every Age

The Best Skin Care Products And Routine For Oily Skin

Oily skin is perhaps the hardest type of skin to deal with because it is caused by hormones which are genetically determined.

If you have oily skin, the skin surface will be slightly to moderately greasy, which is caused by the over secretion of sebum. This results in your face becoming shiny about two hours after cleansing and continues to become increasingly "greasy" throughout the day. The excess oil on the surface of the skin causes dirt and dust to adhere to it. Oily skin is also prone to blackheads, whiteheads, acne and pimples.

Some people with oily skin don't feel the need to use a moisturiser, which is a totally wrong assumption as the skin will become dehydrated, and react by overproducing even more oil than before. 

OILY SKINCARE ROUTINE DON'TS

Since your oily skin is already producing too much of the good stuff, any heavy oil-based creams are an obvious no-no, but so too are products which dry out the skin.
 

• Avoid heavy facial oils, silicone and petrolatum-based products which are bad pore cloggers.
   
• Skip thick, oil-based creams for the same reason.
   
• Super-drying formulas, like alcohol-based products and charcoal masks. While it may seem like a good idea to remove the oil and dry out the skin, this just makes your skin compensate by producing even more oil, and you become even oilier.
   
• Exfoliation is also necessary, but avoid over-exfoliation with harsh scrubs which can cause irritation and increase in oil production.

OILY SKINCARE ROUTINE DOS

Use lightweight, oil-free products which include gentle ingredients to help control oil and clean out pores without drying out the skin.
 

• For your basic skin care routine, use gentle BHA/salicylic acids which not only help exfoliate the skin but also combat oil, clean inside the pore to reduce pore size, unclog pores, and kill acne-causing bacteria – an absolute must for anyone struggling with blackheads, large pores and pimples.
   
• Cleanse your skin thoroughly every day, especially in hot and humid weather. Look for gentle non foaming cleansers. Use of a non-alcoholic toner after cleansing can help oily skin and looking for one with antioxidants such as vitamin C or green tea can provide great benefits.
  
  Our product picks: Eucerin Dermo Purifyer Face Cleansing Gel, Neutrogena Visibly Clear Spot Proofing 2in1 Face Wash/Mask and Dermalogica Clear Start Micro-Pore Mist with an antioxidant-rich blend of Witch Hazel, Green Tea and Matricaria Flower Extracts to tighten pores.
   
• Moisturising is required whatever your skin type – oily skins should use an oil-free, water-based and non-comedogenic moisturiser. Stick with lightweight gel and oil free formulas.
  
  Our product picks: Neutrogena Visibly Clear Spot Proofing Oil Free Moisturiser, and Eucerin Dermo Purifyer Face Mattifying Fluid, and Garnier Pure Active Matte Control.
   
• Retinols, well-known as anti-agers, are also very effective in reducing oil production and unclogging pores and in doing so, help clear up acne.
   
• Be sure to exfoliate once a week and again salicylic acid, or BHA exfoliant, is great for clearing away dead skin cells and unclogging pores.
  
  Our product picks: Bioderma Sebium Exfoliating Gel and Neutrogena Spot Controlling Facial Scrub.
   
• For pimples, applying a product with benzoyl peroxide like Benzac AC5 Gel, will target and kill acne-causing bacteria. Otherwise opt for a spot control option with gentler salicylic acid like BioNike Acteen Quick Pen Anti-Imperfection.
   
• Mattifying powders, like LA Girl Pro Face HD Pressed Powder, and oil-blotting sheets to keep the shine at bay during the day, like Palladio Rice Paper.

Read More. Want Glowing Skin? You Need to Exfoliate Like A Pro

The Best Skin Care Products And Routine For Combination Skin

Combination skin is the most difficult for people to deal with and recognize. Combination skin occurs when you face two or more skin types at one time so your skin will generally include bits of all the above skin types, so please read through them all to identify how to treat each area. Combination skins usually have an oily T-Zone covering the forehead, nose and chin and are either normal or dry elsewhere on the face.

The best way to treat this type of skin is to use techniques similar to multi-masking where you use specific products to tackle your oily T-zone, and others to address the drier areas on other parts of your face.

COMBINATION SKINCARE ROUTINE DON'TS

Because your face is basically a jigsaw puzzle of skin types, make sure to avoid:
 

• Products with harsh irritants like alcohol, foaming cleansers and bar soaps (that contain sulphates) as these can stimulate oil production in the oily areas while creating more dry skin and redness on the rest of the face.
   
• Rich, heavy moisturisers which will clog pores in your T-zone (although these can be used in those areas where your skin is dry and flaky).
   
• Clay masks or oil-sucking formulas which will destroy your dry patches (but can be used on your T-zone).

COMBINATION SKINCARE ROUTINE DOS

Instead, stick with neutral, gentle formulas, then spot-treat your dry and oily patches with concern-specific products.
 

• Try gentle cleansers, like Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser Lotion or a deep cleansing micellar water like Pond's Flawless Radiance 3 In 1 Brightening Micellar Water.
   
• Look for a mild toner that it does not include any irritating ingredients such as citrus oils, alcohols or witch hazel.
   
• Use lightweight lotions for all-over daily hydration, like Olay Complete All Day Moisturiser or antioxidant rich Nivea Refreshing Day Cream with Vitamin E.
   
• Embrace multi-product usage which involves using specific products for different parts of your face. Use thick, rich moisturisers and serums to layer on the dry spots, while for the T-Zone, use lighter-weight gels, liquids, or oil-absorbing products with salicylic acid which is a great ingredient for use as a regular exfoliant to keep the T-zone oil and acne free. Check out oily, normal and dry skin types for ingredient and product recommendations.
   
• Use any anti-acne medications as spot treatments rather than applying to the entire face. Try BioNike Acteen Quick Pen Anti-Imperfection, Acne Solutions Blemish SOS Spot Repair, or Yardley Oatmeal Spot Buster.

Read More. Here's How to Effectively Treat Every Type of Acne (And Hide Them Too!)

The Best Skin Care Products And Routine For Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin is not strictly a skin type, but a rather a skin condition. Skin sensitivity is more often due to a product irritating the skin rather than an allergic reaction. Once skin is irritated and inflamed, the first thing to do is avoid whatever it is that has caused the sensitivity - harsh detergents and surfactants and heavily fragranced cosmetics, personal care and household products. 

When skin is extremely irritated, be sure to avoid using too many different products on the skin.

SENSITIVE SKINCARE ROUTINE DON’TS

Because your skin reacts so quickly to sensitising ingredients and abrasives, you obviously have to take extreme care with what you use.
 

• Avoid irritating ingredients - alcohol and menthol being the main ones.
   
• Skip anything harsh like fragrance, scrubs, cleansing brushes, facecloths, AHAs, Retin-A, Renova, benzoyl peroxide, skin lighteners, dyes, and preservatives like parabens or formaldehyde derivatives, which can only add to the problem and trigger irritation.
   
• Avoid saunas, steam, and extreme hot or cold water.

SENSITIVE SKINCARE ROUTINE DOS

Your aim with sensitive skin is to protect the weakened skin barrier and rebuild the skin’s own natural protective defence function. Skin that is sensitive is most often dry as well.
 

• Always opt for fragrance-free and hypoallergenic (not allergy free) products. And if you can, try to patch test all products on the inside of your arm before you buy.
   
• Choose products rich in gentle moisturising and emollient ingredients. Look for classic repairing agents such as glycerine and ceramides, along with anti-inflammatory (and antioxidant) plant extracts such as oatmeal, liquorice extract, burdock root, sea whip extract, beta-glucan, chamomile, willow herb, and epigallocatechin gallate, the active form of inflammation-reducing antioxidant green tea.
  
  Our product picks:
  Cleansers: Some of the gentlest cleansers are micellar waters. Try Garnier Skin Naturals Micellar Cleansing Water Sensitive or Bioderma Hydrabio H2o Micellar Water for sensitive skins. Otherwise, a good option is La Roche Posay Toleriane Dermo-Cleanser.
   
• Moisturisers: The French pharmaceutical brands are specialists in sensitive skin care. We like Avène Tolerance Extreme Emulsion, Bioderma Sensibio Rich Soothing Cream, and Uriage Roseliane Anti-Redness Crème. Or you can try Endocil Moisturising Beauty Fluid for Sensitive Skin.
   
• Products containing niacinamide can help reduce some of the redness that sensitive-skin types often experience. Try La Roche Posay Toleriane Riche Soothing Protective Cream.

View Video: Skin Care Expert, Renee Rouleau - Five Worst Skin Mistakes

Best Sunscreens For All Skin Types

Sunscreen is a non-negotiable and must be used every day, year-round if you want to prevent and stop wrinkles, pigmentation and other signs of aging skin. And be aware than you need to be protected at all times, even if it is mid-winter, overcast or you are inside, as the damaging UVA/UVB rays get everywhere. 

It's best to opt for broad spectrum protection products for the most effective defence against the sun. And if you have sensitive skin and rosacea, choose sunscreens with only titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide as the active ingredients.

Our product picks: Bioderma Photoderm AR Tinted Cream SPF50, Eucerin Photoaging Control Sun Fluid Face SPF50, BioNike Defence Sun 50+ No Shine Fluid, or Nivea Sun UV Face Creme Q10 Anti Age SPF50.

Read More. Want to Know If Your Sunscreen Is REALLY Protecting You?