The Good Stuff – Best Ingredients For Your Skin

The Skin Vitamins

You can probably guess that Vitamins are way up there on our skin essentials list, but some - especially the antioxidants - are more vital than others...

Our problem is that we are literally oxygen thieves - we steal it from the atmosphere so that we can stay alive. But unfortunately, in using oxygen, we produce free radicals (or reactive oxygen species).

Add to this the daily total onslaught of pollution, smoking, sun, ozone, stress, intensive exercise, and so on, and we get an unrelenting bombardment of free radicals on our body. Unless they are stopped, these damage our cell walls and collagen. These faulty cells then copy themselves, carrying the damage in their blueprints. Imagine a photocopy that has slightly blurred edges. If you copy that copy, it will get slightly more blurry, and so on. Our best defense against these tiny terrors is antioxidants or free radical scavengers, especially when it comes to our skin.

In his book, The Antioxidant Miracle Dr. Lester Packer, aka "Dr. Antioxidant" because of his decades of research into antioxidants, explains that they work in synergy as a network in the body, rather than singly, as well as recycling one another, and that "the sum is greater than its parts", and that they can greatly enhance the power of one another.

For example, Vitamins E and C work together - vitamin C protects the cell's membrane while vitamin E encounters radicals and neutralises them. In this process it itself then becomes a radical, but vitamin C recycles it back into its antioxidant form. It's a continuous cycle.

 

Vitamin A (Retinol) 
Best for: Anti-ageing, wrinkles, acne-prone skin, hyperpigmentation, acne scars

Starting with A - vitamin A is 'the skin vitamin' - important both as an anti-ageing vitamin and for the treatment of acne. It helps control the rate of skin cell and collagen formation and regulates the health of skin cells, preventing them become abnormal (ageing or cancerous). A lack of vitamin A will result in dry, scaly skin.
Retinol, derived from Vitamin A, is arguably the most powerful ingredient for skin renewal. It increases cell turnover, stimulates the production of elastin and collagen, and can even be used to fade pigmentation. Products that contain retinol may target acne or eczema, wrinkles and sun damage.

Maryam Zamani, a leading aesthetic doctor, emphasises that all retinols are not, however, created equal, and it's therefore very important that you use the correct percentage for your particular skin concern, as well as ensuring that the packaging of the cream keeps it away from air and light, which destroy vitamin A.

Our Vitamin A product picks:
L'Oréal Skin Revitalift Laser Retinol Serum with retinol plus hyaluronic acid and aloe vera to effectively reduce wrinkles, even deep ones.
Avène Cleanance TriAcnéal Expert for oily, acne-prone skin includes a trio of actives (including retinaldehyde) to fight acne bacteria, rejuvenate skin, unblock pores and help reduce dark marks.
Skin Republic Pure Retinol Serum 0.2% to visibly soothe fine lines and wrinkles and increase skin’s firmness.
Avène A-Oxitive Night Peeling Cream with retinaldehyde, Vitamin E and evening primrose oil is ideal for early ageing concerns and fine lines.
SkinCeuticals has a range of retinols increasing in strength – Retinol 0.3 to start, progressing to Retinol 0.5, and finally Retinol 1.0 once your skin is fully acclimatised to the ingredient.

Medical-strength retinoid (tretinoin) creams such as Retin-A, Renova and Differin are available via prescription from your dermatologist.

If you are a beginner to retinol and retinoids, but are keen to try them, it’s worth reading this very comprehensive guide on their plusses and pitfalls from skincare expert Renee Rouleau. And if your skin is inclined to sensitivity, consider starting off with a fairly new ingredient, Bakuchiol, that is being hailed as a gentler retinol alternative.

CAUTION: It is vital that you use very good UVA/UVB protection SPF 50+ when on any vitamin A skin treatment as it makes your skin very sun-sensitive. For this reason, it’s also best you use retinol only at night.

Retinols also don’t pair well with AHAs and BHAs - or Vitamin C - so use these ingredients in the morning. You can however add hyaluronic acid to your night time retinol routine if you find it too drying.

Read More: How to Improve Your Skin by What You Eat. Yes, Really

 

Vitamin B (Niacinamide and Panthenol)
Best for: Anti-ageing. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) for hyperpigmentation, even skin tone, fine lines and to strengthen skin barrier. Panthenol (Vitamin B5) to increase hydration and softness.

The various B vitamins (B3, B5 especially) have wonderful anti-ageing properties. Because they are intensely hydrating and anti-inflammatory, they help to boost skin elasticity, and brighten and even skin tone.

For those who find exfoliators like glycolic and salicylic acid too harsh for their complexion, try vitamin B3, or niacinamide (a derivative of niacin). Unlike other chemical exfoliators, B3 is less acidic - causing little to no irritation. It’s been shown to strengthen skin’s moisture barrier and reduce the appearance of discoloration and blotchiness.

Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) is moisturising powerhouse that promotes soft, supple and comfortable skin. It’s hydrating and soothing properties soothe dryness, itchiness and redness, so it’s especially good for dry and sensitive skins.

Our Vitamin B product picks:
Try Skin Republic’s Serum with 10% Niacinamide plus 1% Zinc.
La Roche Posay Pigmentclar Intensive Dark Spot Correcting Serum to target hyperpigmentation.
Olay Total Effects Instant Smoothing Serum which contains VitaNiacin Complex (Vitamin B3, E and pro-vitamin B5).
La Roche-Posay’s Hyalu B5 Serum combines moisture-binding hyaluronic acid with panthenol and madecassoside for superior hydrating and soothing activity, so it's great for drier, ageing skin.

 

Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Palmitate)
Best for: Antioxidant, protecting and repairing skin, boosting collagen, skin lightening and brightening, glowing skin, dark spots, acne scars, hyperpigmentation, anti-ageing, wrinkles, redness.

Vitamin C not only boosts your immune system, its real strength, according to Journal of Applied Cosmetology, is in its effectiveness as an antioxidant – it squelches free radicals which are involved in the development of everything from hyperpigmentation (freckles and dark spots) to skin cancer. It’s also well-known for giving dull skin a beautiful healthy glow.

But the key to effectiveness is the use of a concentration of 10 percent vitamin C or higher, usually only available in serums. If you have sensitive skin, you’re probably thinking NO at this point – vitamin C can sting!

There’s good news though – Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a more stable form of Vitamin C which almost every skin can tolerate – from dark to light – and even those with sensitive skins. It’s great for eliminating blackheads, sorting out sun spots and protecting the skin from environmental damage and signs of ageing.

Our Vitamin C product picks:
Although pricey, SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic with both Vitamins C and E plus Ferulic Acid, another potent antioxidant, is considered the gold standard in this category and has tons of raving fans.
Try Vichy LiftActiv Vitamin C Brightening Skin Corrector Serum which contains 15% vitamin C, vitamin E, Hyaluronic Acid and polyphenols.
Garnier Skinactive Even Matte Vitamin C Booster Serum evens and brightens your skin tone by reducing dark spots, acne marks, and reversing sun damage.
Nip And Fab Vitamin C Serum with anti-oxidant rich carrot oil and acai berry extract, an anti-inflammatory.

Read More. The Most Important Skin Care Products You Need to Use at Every Age

 

Vitamin E
Best for: Antioxidant, superb moisturising, strengthens skin barrier, anti-inflammatory, soothes and softens skin, wrinkles, dry or sensitive skin, healing scars and stretch marks.

Vitamin E is C’s partner for life, as they recycle one another and together boost both of their antioxidant benefits. It has also been a popular ingredient in hand, body and face creams for ever because of its fantastic hydrating properties.

It not only hydrates, but actually locks in moisture and helps to maintain the skins barrier function. It also helps to boost collagen production, reducing fine lines and wrinkles. One of those essentials for maintaining good skin health and condition…

Our Vitamin E product picks:
Clinique Moisture Surge Hydrating Supercharged Concentrate with Vitamins E and C, aloe water and hyaluronic acid for an instant moisture boost that lasts up to 72 hours.
Avène Hydrance Aqua-Gel, a hydration powerhouse including the renowned Avène thermal spring water, hyaluronic acid and Vitamin E.
Cetaphil Moisturising Cream, a dermatologist-backed blend of niacinamide (vitamin B3), panthenol (vitamin B5), glycerine and Vitamin E for dry, sensitive skin.
Bio Oil pairs Vitamin E with Vitamin A plus plant-based oils to not only nourish skin but also even out skin tone and reduce scars and marks.

 

Vitamin K
Best for: Dark under-eye circles, dark spots, even skin tone, brighter skin.

If you suffer with dark rings under your eyes, Vitamin K is for you. Some experts believe the cause may be tiny, leaking capillaries under the skin. And since vitamin K is known for its ability to aid in blood coagulation, it makes sense that it may help correct the discoloration. A great anti-inflammatory, it’s also perfect for treating sun spots and helps to speed up the skin’s healing processes.

Our Vitamin K product pick:
ISDIN Isdinceutics K-OX Eyes not only includes Vitamin K but also peptides to stimulate collagen production and the super hydrator, hyaluronic acid, to smooth away fine lines and wrinkles.

 

Flavonoids (Quercetin)
Best for: Antioxidant, protection against UV radiation, anti-inflammatory, sensitive skin.

Flavonoids are powerful antioxidant chemicals naturally found in many species of plants. They are rich in antioxidants because they produce pure oxygen during photosynthesis, but this leaves them vulnerable to oxidation themselves, so the antioxidants protect them. Found especially in berries, green tea, red grape polyphenols, chocolate, onions, wine and gingko biloba.

Quercetin is a flavonoid that is often used in skin care as a gentler alternative to retinol. Not only does it have similar anti-ageing benefits, but is also an anti-inflammatory so is perfect for sensitive and acne-prone skin.

Our Quercetin product pick: pHformula SOS Repair Cream with shea butter, panthenol and rooibos extract with 2 flavonoids (quercetin & luteolin), for high levels of hydration, barrier protection and skin repair. Suitable for all skins, but especially dry and sensitive.

 

Vitamin Q (Q10 or Coenzyme Q10)
Best for: Antioxidant, energizing and repairing skin cells, ageing and wrinkles, radiant skin, helps prevent sun spots and hyperpigmentation.

Q10 or Coenzyme Q10 (aka Ubiquinone Q10 or vitamin Q) is produced by the body and is an essential trigger – the spark plug - without which cells cannot produce energy. This powerful antioxidant also strengthens the skin’s natural immune system and is now heralded as a veritable wrinkle eraser.

As with most things, CoQ10 levels taper off as we age, and through oral supplementation and skin creams, it may help us to stave off premature ageing. It works to repair and regenerate your skin at a faster rate to help you stay looking young, radiant and energised.

Our Q10 product picks: Find it in the Nivea Q10 Power range, Eucerin Q10 Active (also with Vitamins C, E and H) and Skin Republic’s CoQ10 Caviar Repairing and Restoring Mask.

Read More. Are You ABSOLUTELY Sure You Are Using the Best Skin Care Products for Your Skin Type?

Essential Fatty Acids (Omega 3 & 6, Ceramides and Peptides)

Best for: Strong and healthy skin barrier, hydration, dry skin, fine lines, eczema, rosacea.

Essential fatty acids (EFAs) are vital for healthy skin. They make up the membranes of cell walls and a lack means cells dry out too quickly, and this can also contribute to eczema. They can be found in seeds (sesame, flax, pumpkin, sunflower) nuts or their cold-pressed oils, or get them from oily fish sources, such as salmon, tuna, etc.

Omega 3 & 6
Omega-3 oil is one supplement you should take orally every day – for all sorts of health reasons. It will help soothe your skin as well, especially if it is very dry, rough or inflamed (eczema, etc.). Omega-3s are a natural part of the outer layer of the skin, and serve to reinforce and smooth the skin's surface, increase hydration and prevent moisture from escaping.

Our Omega product picks:
Biogen’s Omega-3 supplement is a daily healthy skin and body must-have.
REN Vita Mineral Omega 3 Optimum Skin Oil dramatically improves moisture levels, boosts overall skin health while reducing signs of wrinkles, ageing and sensitivity.
Eucerin Atocontrol Acute Care Cream with regenerating Omega-6 fatty acids (Evening Primrose Oil and Grape Seed Oil) to intensively care, calm and soothe dry, irritated skin and control flare-ups.

 

Ceramides
Ceramides are best sourced from your skin treatment. Like Omega-3’s, these waxy lipid molecules are naturally present in the skin’s outer layer, and play a key role in the skin’s barrier function. When applied in a cream, ceramides help increase skin hydration and promote optimal barrier function, acting as the mortar in the “brick wall” of your skin, repairing and strengthening the skin barrier.

Our Ceramide product picks:
L'Oréal Dermo Expertise Triple Active Day Multiprotection Moisturiser includes ceramides plus Vitamin E and a UV filter.
Eucerin DermoPurifyer Adjunctive Hydrating Care with ceramides and panthenol to soothe the dryness and redness often associated with acne-prone skin.
Avène Revitalising Nourishing Cream is an ultra-rich ceramide cream for tired, dehydrated skin.
SkinCeuticals uses ceramides, fatty acids and Vitamin E in Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2, which is ideal for mature, dehydrated skins.
Lamelle uses patented Ceramide-P to rebuild the skin barrier in the Serra range - ideal for eczema-prone, dry, sensitive skin.
And let us not forget Elizabeth Arden’s legendary Ceramides range, also with Vitamin C.

 

Peptides
Peptides can be described as protein building blocks, so they can speed up wound healing and boost collagen production, but also have a sort-of wrinkle-reducing Botox effect when applied in a cream.

Our peptide product picks: Olay Regenerist Whip Cream Moisturiser with advanced Amino-Peptide Complex II, actively hydrates to improve elasticity and firm skin for a lifted look, and Vichy Liftactiv Peptide-C Anti-Ageing Ampoules with a potent anti-ageing trilogy of 10% pure vitamin C, bio-peptides plus hyaluronic acid.

 

Squalane/Squalene
Squalane is saturated fatty acid with antioxidant properties that has generated quite a bit of buzz in recent years. It’s a powerful moisturiser that helps to improve smoothness and suppleness and support a healthy skin barrier. Squalene with an ‘e’ delivers the same benefits but is a plant derived option.

Our Squalane product pick: La Roche-Posay Effaclar H is ideal for a sensitive or oily skin weakened by over-drying skincare products. It instantly hydrates and helps to restore the skin’s protective barrier.

Read More. The Best Serums Will Help You Reach Your Dream Skin (Yes, Really)

The Skin Acids (AHA, PHA, BHA, Benzoyl Peroxide)

Best for: Exfoliating, pore cleaning, lines and wrinkles, brightening, acne, dark marks, hyperpigmentation.

Who would have thought acids would be good for your skin? Lactic acid gave Cleopatra her legendary complexion, thanks to her regular baths in asses’ milk. This alpha-hydroxy acid, found naturally in sour milk, loosens and exfoliates old, dead skin cells to effectively bring fresh, young skin cells to the surface.

AHAs – Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (including glycolic, lactic, kojic, mandelic and fruit acids like citric, malic and tartaric) - are fantastic exfoliators. Because they are water soluble, they exfoliate the surface layer of the skin leaving the skin brighter and evening out skin tone and texture.

One of the most popular AHAs is glycolic acid, which is able to penetrate damaged skin to speed up new cell production and so effectively treat acne, hyperpigmentation and sun damage. Not to mention how smooth your skin will feel when it whisks away those fine lines and wrinkles!

Our AHA product picks:
NeoStrata Enlighten Dark Spot Corrector to address dark marks such as freckles, age spots, and hyperpigmentation.
Nip And Fab Glycolic Fix Pads not only retexture and resurface the skin to minimise fine lines and fade dark marks, but also include hyaluronic acid to add back moisture, and blue daisy to soothe and calm.
Bioderma Sébium Global for the treatment of acne.

 

PHAs – Polyhydroxy Acids
PHAs are actually a new type of AHA that provide similar benefits to other alpha hydroxy acids, without causing the skin irritation you can get with AHAs. They’re ideal if your skin is a little dry and sensitive but you still need and want to exfoliate.

Our PHA product pick: NeoStrata Bio-Hydrating Cream will gently exfoliate while providing skin barrier support.

 

BHAs – Beta Hydroxy Acids
BHAs are oil soluble, so they penetrate deeply into the skin to remove impurities and unclog pores. Beta hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid help to reduce bacteria and thoroughly clean the skin, so they’re great for getting rid of pimples and blemishes, and brightening a dull complexion.

Our BHA product picks:
Find salicylic acid in anti-acne skin care products like La Roche Posay Effaclar K, Garnier Pure Active, BioNike Acteen, Vichy Normaderm Anti Blemish Day Cream, and Clinique’s legendary Clarifying Lotion 2 and Anti-Blemish Solutions.
La Roche Posay Pigmentclar Serum includes LHA, a derivative of salicylic acid and a powerful anti-dark spots complex to address pigmentation issues.

 

Benzoyl Peroxide
An organic acid in the peroxide family, benzoyl peroxide is another common anti-acne ingredient. Often used in conjunction with, for example salicylic acid, it helps to reduce the amount of bacteria on the skin and has a drying effect. Find it in the Benzac range.

Read More. Your Complete Guide: The Best Treatments to Get Rid of Acne Scars & Dark Spots

Humectants (Hyaluronic Acid, Urea, Glycerine)

Best for: Moisturising dehydrated skin, anti-ageing, wrinkles, plump glowing skin

Humectants (such as hyaluronic acid, urea and glycerine) are like moisture magnets for the skin. They attract water, plump up the skin and help it retain moisture.

Hyaluronic Acid (HA)
Hyaluronic Acid is the mother of all humectants, holding 1000 times its own weight in water. It’s the body’s own natural hydrator, and is an excellent moisturiser when applied on your skin. An absolute must-have for that youthful, dewy and glowing look we all want and love.

Our hyaluronic acid product picks:
Find it in the Eucerin Hyaluron Filler range, Vichy Mineral Booster 89, La Roche Posay Hyalu B5 Serum (with Vitamin B3) and L'Oréal Dermo Expertise Revitalift Filler Hyaluronic Acid Serum. SkinCeuticals also uses it in its Hydrating B5 range.

Safe Sun Protection

Remember that the good work you put in to getting the best skin ever means absolutely zilch if you don’t wear a sunscreen. If you do nothing else, make this a must-have part of your morning routine. But what can you use to keep your skin safe?

Zinc oxide isn't just good for baby bottoms! It's a natural mineral that protects the skin from both UVA and UVB rays by creating a physical barrier that reflects the rays rather than absorbing them.
 
Combined with Titanium Dioxide, you're covered for both UVA and UVB protection. If you suffer from rosacea or redness of any kind, check that your sunscreen contains this.
 
Our mineral sunscreen product picks: La Roche Posay Anthelios Dry Touch Fluid SPF50 and Clinique SPF50 Mineral Sunscreen Fluid For Face.

The Bad Stuff – Skin Care Ingredients to Avoid

So that's a list of some of the good stuff. What ingredients should you definitely avoid?
 

• Don't be fooled by words such as 'natural' or 'organic' - a product only needs about 30% natural ingredients to be labelled natural. And sometimes natural isn't necessarily the best option - mercury is natural, after all. Always check the ingredients, especially if you have a specific skin condition.


• Some ingredients are known to be comedogenic - in other words, tending to cause blackheads by blocking the pores of the skin - so check that your product is non-comedogenic.
  
  If you are prone to blackheads or acne, try to avoid any kind of mineral oil, often referred to as petrolatum, paraffin oil or liquid petroleum, because of its occlusive effect. These can aggravate acne and dryness and even interrupt cell renewal. Some oils, like coconut oils or certain synthetic oils, can become solid at room temperature and cause breakouts.


• Because ingredients are usually listed in order of concentration, the first 5 ingredients will tell you the most, but it’s probably wise to check further down the list as well.


• Phthalates and fragrance (often listed as parfum) are known to cause allergic reactions, while sulphates strip the skin of its natural oils and can destroy the skin’s protective barrier, leading to dryness and irritation.


• Parabens are effective preservatives that may mimic oestrogen. Many manufacturers have removed parabens from their products and replaced them with phenoxyethanol due to public pressure, even though the levels in skincare are much lower than the paraben used to preserve some foodstuffs. While phenoxyethanol is a safer alternative, it can still be irritating to the skin.


• Other preservatives such as formaldehyde should be avoided at all costs because they have been linked to endocrine disruption, as well as allergic reactions. Be cautious about your Brazilian hair straightening treatment. Stick to one a year, if you must, as they use formaldehyde to break the bond that makes your hair curl.

Read More: At-Home Skincare Devices That Will Give You Salon Quality Results