What Causes Blackheads, Whiteheads and Enlarged Pores?

Now that we have your full attention, let's understand what we're dealing with…
 

• Blackheads (aka comedones) are not dirt. They're actually a mix of oil (sebum) and dead skin cells sitting in your pores. When the tip is exposed to air, the oil oxidises and turns black or brown.
   
  They can form anywhere on your body that has a hair follicle and its accompanying oil gland, but they are most common on the oilier areas of your face - your nose and its sides, chin, forehead, and inner cheeks. Some people, especially during puberty and if they have very oily skin, can get blackheads in their ears, on their chest, shoulders, and back.
   
  But it’s not just excess sebum that can cause blackheads. According to world-renowned dermatologist Dr. Nicholas Perricone, ‘One of the main culprits for blackheads is rising insulin levels.
   
  When our blood sugar and insulin levels rise, whether from a poor diet or from stress, we experience a serious increase in inflammatory chemicals at the cellular level. This causes inflammatory diseases, such as blackheads, to worsen dramatically.’ So best you cut down on dunkin’ those donuts. Pass the salad, please.
   
  Oily skin is the main cause, however, which is one time you may thank your genes if you have drier skin.


• Whiteheads are essentially the same as blackheads, except the pore isn't open, so the tip doesn't oxidise, and you see a white bump under the skin. If the whitehead becomes infected with bacteria, you get a full-blown pimple or acne.


• What about enlarged pores? Most often genetics will determine the size of your pores, but enlarged pores, especially on the cheeks, nose, chin and between the brows are a tell-tale sign that you have oily skin – at least in that area.
   
  Because blackheads occur when pores get blocked, it makes sense that the larger the pore, the bigger the blockage, and continual blockage can stretch your pores.

 
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How To Get Rid Of Blackheads and Reduce Pores

Looping back neatly to Dr. Pimple Popper, her advice is: ‘With both blackheads and whiteheads, I advise trying not to squeeze them while they're forming. Any attempt may cause the comedone to stick around for longer and become bigger and uglier. Both are usually responsive to topical adapalene or tretinoin (which are both prescription medications – for example, Differin by Galderma). For something over-the-counter, I recommend using retinol products at night to speed up skin cell renewal. They can irritate the skin somewhat, especially in those with very dry skin, so a little goes a long way. A pea-size portion is plenty for the entire face.’

Her favourites are Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair and La Roche Posay Effaclar Duo+ Anti-Imperfections Corrector.

Aside from retinol-based products which encourage cell turnover and so help the skin appear smoother and clearer, there are also several ways to help reduce and remove blackheads as well as keep your pore size stable, and even to improve their appearance:
 

• First and foremost, proper cleansing is vital to reduce sebum. Never, ever go to sleep without cleansing thoroughly. Washing away any excess oil and grime doesn't mean using a harsh, oil-stripping product that will leave your skin feeling dry and tight afterwards. You need a cleansing product that respects your hydrolipidic skin barrier, or your skin will panic at the loss of its natural protection and go into oil production overdrive.
   
  Products containing zinc and magnesium help to restore the skin's oil balance and clear pores, which can make pores appear smaller. Soothing ingredients such as lavender and rosemary also help to ease irritation. Check that your product says 'noncomedogenic' i.e., it won't clog pores.
   
  Products we like: Neutrogena Spot Controlling Oil-Free Facial Scrub plus their Blackhead Eliminating Cleansing Toner, BioNike Defence Rebalancing Cleansing Gel and Garnier Skin Pure Active Anti-Blackheads 3in1 Wash, Scrub And Mask with Charcoal.
   
  Products which contain salicylic acid and minerals include BioNike Acteen Purifying Cleansing Gel, Garnier Pure Active Anti-Blackhead Daily Pore Scrub Wash, and Yardley Oatmeal Deep Pore Face Wash.


• Double cleansing involves using a cleansing oil to first dissolve the oil and grime, then using a second cleanser (above) to purify the pores deeply.
   
  Cleansing oils we love: Clarins One-Step Facial Cleanser contains ultrafine oils of moringa seed and orange extract to cleanse the skin thoroughly, Garnier Skin Active Micellar Cleansing Water Micellar in Oil and T-Zone Charcoal & Bamboo Black Cleansing Oil.

 

• Exfoliation is very important, but don't go crazy, as this could actually push inflammation even deeper and make the problem worse. So pick your exfoliator carefully. A physical scrub will clear away the top 'plug' of your blackhead, and it can be a bit harsh, especially when it's so tempting to scrub oily skin. Remember, this skin is delicate and needs to be handled with TLC.
   
  We prefer using a chemical exfoliating treatment, which contains glycolic, lactic or salicylic acid - all good at unclogging pores and reducing the production of sebum, while retinoids work deep within to reduce the pore size (through collagen production and cell renewal stimulation) and making the oil less sticky, leaving your skin clearer and more smooth.
   
  Pore minimisers and skin refiners we like: Bioderma Sebium Global Intensive Purifying Care, Avène Cleanance Triacneal Expert Emulsion with retinaldehyde and exfoliating enzymes, La Roche Posay Effaclar K+ Oily Skin Anti Sebum, Nip And Fab Glycolic Fix Serum, Uriage Hyseac Matifying Emulsion and Clarins Pore Minimizing Serum.
   
• You could also use a face cleansing brush system like the one from Carmen to help keep pores clear.


• Once a week, use a clay mask to draw out impurities.
   
  Products we like: Freeman Facial Clay Mask Avocado and Oatmeal, L'Oréal Pure Clay Mask Blemish Rescue and Young Solution Deep Clean Purifying Charcoal Mask.
   
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• You need to moisturise to keep your protective skin barrier intact. Just remember to choose a light, oil-free moisturiser that helps regular oil production and has anti-shine properties:
   
  Our picks: Cetaphil Oil Control Moisturiser for Acne Prone Skin, BioNike Acteen Hydramat Sebum Normalising Cream, La Roche Posay Effaclar Mat Sebum Control Moisturiser, Eucerin Dermo-Purifyer Face Mattifying Fluid and Vichy Normaderm Anti Blemish Day Cream with fruit acids.
   
• Never be without your sunscreen! Too much sun makes your skin less supple, so enlarged pores will look even bigger.
   
  Top pick: Bioderma Photoderm Nude Touch SPF 50+ gives you mineral sunscreen protection plus a Fluidactiv patent that helps control excess oil production, giving oily/combination skin a velvety matte skin for up to 8 hours. Other good options include BioNike Defence Sun High Protection Spray SPF 50 and La Roche Posay Anthelios SPF 50 Anti-Shine Dry Touch Gel Cream.
   
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What Else Can Help Reduce Blackheads?

So there you have the recipe for clear pores and getting rid of blackheads. But what if you still have them? Then what?

 

• Option 1: There's always camouflage
   
  If you haven’t discovered the joys of primer to disguise pores and make your foundation float on the surface of super-smooth skin, you don’t know what you’re missing. We like Maybelline Baby Skin Pore Eraser Primer and LA Girl Pro-Prep High Definition Smoothing Face Primer.
   
  You could also try one of the great BB creams, such as LA Girl Pro BB Cream.
   
• Option 2: Can you squeeze them yourself?
   
  Opinion is divided on this, but yes you can - although it's important to be EXTREMELY gentle, as over-enthusiastic squeezing will traumatise the skin and could cause lasting scarring and dark marks.
   
  First cleanse and gently steam (or do this after your shower), then try to extract the contents of the pore using gentle pressure (and cotton wool or gloved hands!), wiggling the area gently rather than squeezing hard.
   
  Extractor tools like Cala Black Head Remover Double-Looped Blemish Extractor are also available. Be very gentle with a blackhead extractor as you can cut and damage the skin quite badly if you apply too much pressure.
   
  But if you have a significant blackhead problem, it's probably better to leave extraction to the professionals.

 

• Option 3: Professional Treatments - Blackhead Removal and Pore Vacuuming
  
  
  • Extractions are an essential (and important) part of any facial, but they can cause damage if not done properly. Too much pressure - particularly on sensitive skin - can lead to 'broken' capillaries. Likewise, too much pressure causes damage, which leads to hyperpigmentation (dark marks) in people with darker skin.
  
  
  • It's a good idea to book yourself regular facials for a few weeks, so that extractions can be done in stages to avoid any adverse effects.
  
  
  • Salons also perform microdermabrasion (most commonly known as a pore vacuum), a bit like a mini vacuum cleaner which blasts the skin with tiny, smooth microcrystals and literally lifts blackheads out of the pores. Although a temporary solution, microdermabrasion has the great effect of encouraging the formation of fresh collagen and skin cells.
  
  
  • Skin peels are another option. They use gentle fruit acids to remove the top layer of skin (and the blackheads). The acids are very mild, and are usually safe for even sensitive skin. Superficial peels are suitable for all skin tones, but make sure you go to a reputable skin-care clinic who is well trained in using peels, so you don't get results you don't want.
  
  
  • Micro-needling (also known as collagen induction therapy) uses fine needles to create hundreds of tiny, invisible puncture wounds in the top layer of skin. This therapy can be done in a salon or at home using a dermaroller. The tiny injuries that the needles create stimulate the body's natural wound healing process.
  
  
  • Light and laser treatment target the deep pockets of oil that are the cause of blackheads, reducing the future oil supply. Light therapy also attacks underlying bacteria in the blackheads. Speak to some of the medical laser clinics such as Lasermed and Skin Renewal for your best light options.

 Here's to a smooth future!
 
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