What Is Microneedling - And How Does It Work?

• Firstly, your body reacts to the punctures, or ‘micro-abrasions’, by using its wound healing mechanism: producing more collagen and elastin in the affected areas. These are essential in combating signs of ageing and improving other skin conditions like acne scars and pigmentation, as they both heal and plump up your skin.


• Secondly, microneedling increases the amount of product your skin absorbs, because more product can get in thanks to the micro-abrasions.

The Benefits and Side Effects of Microneedling

• The major benefit of microneedling and derma rolling at home is that it radically enhances the skin’s texture. It’s so effective that your collagen production starts to increase immediately and after just 4 weeks you can begin to notice a difference. It may take a bit longer to see changes in very deep wrinkles, hyperpigmentation or scarring, but this should be noticeable within a few months to a year of regular treatment.


• Microneedling benefits for the face are wide-ranging. Many research studies have shown to improve a number of common skin complaints including: acne and other types of scars, lines and wrinkles (both fine and deep), frown lines, crow’s feet, sagging, ageing skin, rough skin texture, large pores, rosacea, stretch marks, pigmentation and sun damage. Some claim that microneedling can help with cellulite but unfortunately this is yet to be proven. However, it can be also be effectively used on the neck, décolletage and other areas like the arms, stomach and thighs where the skin has become crepey.


• The increased blood flow to your face also brightens dull skin and gives you a youthful glow that would be impossible to get from just creams and serums alone. Some say it helps to combat under eye bags too.


• Another benefit of microneedling is that the downtime is low. It’s very little, if any, for at-home derma rolling. The recovery period for professional treatments is just 2 to 7 days, during which your skin might be slightly red. Some people peel slightly too. Other skin treatments like chemical peels or laser treatments can take up to 8 weeks to recover from and side effects can include inflammation, pigmentation and irritation.

• Professional microneedling treatments can sometimes cause a little bleeding, bruising, redness or itchiness but these generally clear up fairly quickly. Any side effects from at-home derma rolling, if done correctly, are very rare.


• However, if you suffer from sensitive skin, you may find that microneedling leaves you feeling red and flushed. Rather patch test it first to check your skin’s reaction.


• Also, if your skin is highly receptive to products bear this in mind when microneedling. By microneedling you are increasing the amount of product that enters your skin, so you’ll need to use less product.

How To Safely Use a Derma Roller At Home

• How often should you use a derma roller?
  Because of all the benefits it can be tempting to try and micro-needle every day once you’ve got your own derma roller. Think about it like this: when you make micro-abrasions to your skin you open it up to absorbing your products more (good) but you also open it up to inflammation and irritation (not so good).
  
  The general rule is once a week, but one could micro-needle up to five times a week; it all depends on how your unique skin reacts and what needle size you’re using. When you’re first trying out this treatment, use a 0.25mm needle and do it just once a week. You can then work your way up from there.


• When to derma roll
  You should use your derma roller at night just before bed. Microneedling is a form of irritating your skin, but you’re doing it in a controlled way. During the day your skin is exposed to extra irritants, like the temperature, sun cream, makeup and the sun, which could upset your skin. Do it at night and let your rich night creams and serums fully penetrate your skin while you sleep.


• What about the different needle sizes?
  The length of the needles on your derma roller can range from 0.25mm to 2.0mm for at home use (any higher is best kept for professional treatments). Depending on your skin sensitivity, you may need numbing cream for needles upwards from 1.0mm (and definitely for 2.0mm needles).
  
  We recommend you start with the shortest needle: a 0.25mm. It’s generally agreed that this length of needle isn’t sore to use, just a bit uncomfortable.
  
  When you feel ready you can move up to a 0.5mm needle (you can get a derma roller with 0.5mm needles here), and eventually a 1.0mm if you feel you need deeper penetration from your derma roller. Be warned that most people consider the 1.0mm quite painful so work your way up slowly over a few months.


• Take care of your needles
  Rollers are like razorblades in that they get blunt after a while and need to be replaced otherwise they can damage your skin. If you use your derma roller a few times a week you should replace the needles once a month, and if you only use it once a week then you can replace them less frequently.


• Avoid using on active acne
  While microneedles can help with acne scarring, you should never, ever derma roll on active acne. Even if you just have one pimple you should totally avoid that area with your roller. You don’t want to spread bacteria over the rest of your face or cause infections from irritating your acne or pimples.


• Stay out of the sun
  If you’re using 1.0 mm needles or anything longer, then you need to avoid excessive sun exposure a week before rolling and avoid the sun for a few days afterwards. You should already be using a broad-spectrum sunscreen every day - however, it becomes even more important if you are dermarolling.

How to Derma Roll – Step By Step

• Clean your face and hands and dry them completely. Next, like you would with any sharp instrument, you need to sterilise the needles of your derma roller. Do this by submerging it in rubbing alcohol (which is at least 91% alcohol and available from Dis-Chem). Otherwise use a disinfectant spray. Rinse and dry it and you’re ready to roll.


• Apply a layer of your serum.


• Start by rolling your forehead. Use light pressure to gently roll horizontally across your forehead. Make sure to only go over the same section of skin two or three times.


• Now move on to the rest of your face, rolling horizontally and only two or three times over the same spot. Be extra gentle around your eye area. And when you get to your mouth area just keep your lips shut and roll right over them.


• Repeat this whole process but with a vertical rolling motion.


• And then repeat again, this time rolling diagonally across your face (the whole procedure is known as cross hatching).


• Apply another layer of your serum all over, followed by your regular products like night moisturiser, eye creams etc.


• Clean your derma roller carefully with alcohol before packing it away.

Best Serums to Use for Microneedling

• Oily acne-prone skin: For those wanting to control oiliness and breakouts, your best bet is to look for a non-oily water-based serum with salicylic acid and a hydrator like hyaluronic acid (yes - oily skins need hydrating too) plus Vitamins C and E.
  
  Our product picks: La Roche-Posay Effaclar Ultra Concentrated Serum, Clinique Anti-Blemish Solutions Blemish and Line Correcting Serum, Skin Republic Serum AHA 15% + PHA and Celltone Intensive Spot Control Serum.


• Dry skin: Dehydrated skin will really benefit from dermarolling as your skin will be able to take more hydrating product in. You can use any serum that is good for hydration, especially if it includes the hydrating superhero, hyaluronic acid.
  
  Our product picks: Clinique Moisture Surge Hydrating Supercharged Concentrate, Vichy Mineral Booster 89 with hyaluronic acid, Avène Hydrance Optimale Hydrating Serum for dehydrated and sensitive skin, and Clarins Hydra-Essentiel Intensive Moisture Quenching Serum.


• Dark marks and dull skin: If you have hyperpigmentation or dull skin use a serum with Vitamin C in it to brighten your complexion. However, if you have sensitive skin stay away from Vitamin C as these products will most likely be too harsh for you. Or look for Vitamin C products with sodium ascorbyl phospate which are gentler than those with ascorbic acid.
  
  Our product picks: Bioderma Pigmentbio C-concentrate, Eucerin Even Pigment Perfector Double Booster Serum, Clinique Even Better Clinical Radical Dark Spot Corrector And Interrupter and Garnier Skinactive Even Matte Vitamin C Booster Serum for oily/combo skins.


• Anti-aging: For those wanting to fight the effects of ageing you should use a serum with a high amount of hyaluronic acid in. This ingredient helps combat the sagginess that comes with ageing skin. Its molecules are also pretty big, so it’s ideally used after a micro-needling session where it can be more easily absorbed.
  
  Our product picks: Clarins Double Serum Complete Age Control Concentrate, Clinique Smart Custom Repair Serum, Eucerin Hyaluron-Filler + Elasticity 3D Serum and L’Oréal Revitalift Laser Renew Anti-Ageing Super Serum.

Or Leave Microneedling to The Pros