1. Mythbusters: The Acne Sagas

• Myth: Skin oil is bad
  
  Your skin needs oil. It’s a vital part of a healthy skin, being its own natural hydrator and protector, stopping moisture loss and shielding it from harm from the outside world.
  
  The problem starts when your skin produces too much oil (thanks, genes and hormones!), and the quality of that oil changes. The oil that causes blackheads, spots and acne is different, and medical treatments and good skin care products try to regulate the amount of oil and return the quality of the oil to normal, while helping to eliminate blemishes like blackheads and pimples.
  
  What can help: Specialized oil and acne control ranges include Bioderma Sebium, Eucerin Dermo Purifier, Neutrogena Visibly Clear, BioNike Acteen, Garnier Pure Active and Vichy Normaderm.

• Myth: Oil is dirt and I need to clean it away
  
  Absolutely not. Acne is not a hygiene problem and you don’t want a squeaky-clean, dry, tight skin. Oily skin is vulnerable, sensitive and prone to irritation, so aggressive skin care can leave you with skin that is simultaneously oily, irritated, spotty and dehydrated.
  
  Scrubbing with harsh cleansers strips the oil from your skin, leaving it exposed and vulnerable, so your oil glands get overactive again to compensate for this dry spell.
  
  Instead of scouring and stripping your skin, put aside drying toners and cleansers and wash your face with gentle products designed for oily skin that lift off dirt without irritating skin.
  
  What can help: Try Neutrogena Visibly Clear Pink Grapefruit Face Wash, Yardley Oatmeal Cleansing Gel for Oily Skin and Garnier Pure Active Concentrated Deep Pore Unclogging Gel Wash.

• Myth: Pimples are different to acne
  
  Acne is the broad term that refers to skin conditions involving sebum (skin oil), keratinization (shedding dead skin cells), and bacteria. It can range from very mild acne consisting of mostly blackheads and mild pimples (which can be dealt with at home or by a skin care therapist), to severe cystic acne – which needs medical treatment.
  
  What causes pimples? Excess oil, bacteria and clogged pores are the cause of breakouts. Oil is blocked inside a hair follicle by dead surface skin cells. Bacteria breeds, irritating the follicle, which swells up and becomes red and there you have Mount Etna erupting on your chin.

• Myth: Blackheads mean your skin is dirty
  
  No! They are caused when oil fills a pore. When the top comes into contact with air, it solidifies and changes colour.

• Myth: Acne is a teen problem
  
  Actually, no. It affects almost half the population - it’s more common among men as teenagers, but among adults, it’s more common among women.
  
  Skin specialists report that adult acne is on the increase. It is thought to be related to stress, triggered by raised cortisol levels, and a study has shown that the burn-out age (when it stops) for acne among females is 42 and for males is 40.

• Myth: Acne is caused by what you eat
  
  This one’s a tough one. So much research has been done that has proven junk food does not cause acne, then other studies have shown it does. It’s hard to know what to believe. But a link between eating certain foods and can has definitely been shown. See below on what to eat and what not to eat.

• Myth: My skin is oily so I don’t need moisturiser
  
  Turning your face into the Kalahari won't make acne disappear so much as make it angry and rebellious. You can have oily, acne-prone skin but still lack hydration.
  
  Skipping moisturiser only causes your skin to overcompensate with more oil. Just use an oil-free moisturiser before your acne treatment to hydrate and prime skin.
  
  What can help: BioNike Acteen Hydramat Sebum Normalising Cream and Eucerin Dermo Purifier Oil Control Mattifying Fluid.

• Myth: Tanning helps improve acne
  
  Sunlight contains blue light that’s been shown to stimulate porphyrin, a chemical that kills the bacteria which cause acne. So the sun should help with hectic breakouts and the tan could mask redness and other inflammations.
  
  However, tanning and exposure to UVA and UVB rays thicken the skin, making pores more prone to blocking. This causes a downward spiral of blackheads and further eruptions. You could also experience a rebound effect – if the skin gets dry and damaged from the sun, your body’s response is to produce oil.
  
  Not to mention the fact that sunlight also contains potentially harmful wavelengths like infra red and ultraviolet, which can lead to bigger problems, such as premature ageing and skin cancer. A better alternative is to go to a dermatologist for Photo Dynamic Therapy, a medical treatment that uses a combined light source to kill acne bacteria and reduce inflammation.
  
  Verdict: it’s better to keep out of the sun – especially if you are using a vitamin A based skincare treatment to help with your acne (such as Differin or Skinerin). If you’re on treatments like Roaccutane or Oretane, you absolutely have to avoid the sun. Vitamin A treatments can make the skin very sensitive to the sun, causing other problems. It is vital that you use an oil-free sunscreen every day, reapplying every two hours if you are out in the sun.
  
  What to use: Bioderma Photoderm Max Sun Milk SPF 50+ and La Roche Posay Anthelios SPF 50 Anti-Shine Dry Touch Gel Cream.

• Myth: I must use the highest concentration of benzoyl peroxide I can find
  
  Benzoyl peroxide (an antibacterial ingredient that targets acne and inflammation causing bacteria) is great for treating whiteheads. But more doesn't always equal better.
  
  Even at low levels, benzoyl peroxide kills acne-causing bacteria and opens pores. In fact, high amounts of benzoyl peroxide (up to 10 percent) are more irritating, drying out skin around the pimples, but no more effective than their lower-concentrated counterparts.
  
  What to use: Benzac AC 5 Gel.

• Myth: Dotting on toothpaste can help get rid of pimples
  
  Toothpaste often contains menthol, which can help dry out a pimple. But other ingredients can actually irritate the skin. And there are much better over-the-counter options, which are clinically proven to work.
  
  If, however, you’re on a reality-TV survival show and all you have is a tube of minty freshness, a couple of million viewers and a blemish, a dab on your dot will work.
  
  What to use: BioNike Acteen Quick Pen Anti-Imperfector for Acne Prone Skin and Acne Solutions Dermaceutics Blemish SOS Spot Repair.
  
  Read More. Expert Advice on How to Finally Get Rid of Your Acne

2. The Do’s and Don’ts of Managing Your Acne

• DON’T scrub!
  
  The temptation to use a physical exfoliator or scrub to strip off your top layer of skin in the hopes that your zits will go with it is great. But you really need to treat this fragile condition extremely gently. Certain gentle scrubs are fine to use for blackheads, but a grainy scrub can irritate pimples and cause inflammation, so it starts to overproduce oil. And more oil just leads to more pimples.
  
  We recommend you try a chemical exfoliator, which contain active ingredients like fruit acids, Alpha-hydroxy or salacylic acid that dissolve the intercellular ‘glue’ that holds the outer layer of skin cells together. These products are fairly active and your skin may need to become acclimatised to them - dryness, redness and flaking may occur at first.
  
  What to use: Try Bioderma Sebium Purifying Concentrate Gentle Peel or Garnier Pure Active Intensive 3in1 Charcoal Anti-Blackhead Wash Scrub Mask.

• DON’T pick!
  
  It’s the nasty little secret many of us share: the inability to leave our skin alone. This is the worst skin-care offense of them all, and yet we can’t stop popping, squeezing and picking. Why? Because you can spread bacteria to the surrounding tissues, and you can cause scarring.
  
  If you have a blinding zit on your chin or nose just before your big meeting or hot date, go to a skin-care therapist to have it removed, or use a sterilised fine needle to lance the whitehead. Very gently break the seal by piercing it. With your clean fingers wrapped in tissue, gently wiggle the offender out with the sides of your fingers – do not use your nails! Wipe the area with a soothing water cleanser such as Bioderma Sébium H20 Micelle Cleansing Water to help it heal.
  
  For blackheads, some skincare experts say it’s ok to use a clean extraction tool: place the metal loop over the blackhead and gently press down so they rise out the pore.
  
  Did we mention clean and very gently?!

• DO some basic hygiene
  
  When showering, make sure you wash your back and face after shampooing and conditioning. Wear your hair off your face. Facetime with your phone can spread dirt and bacteria. Keep it and your keyboard clean.
  
  And stop touching your face.

• DO consult a dermatologist
  
  If your acne is becoming worse, take action before it becomes cystic (with numerous big painful blind pimples). Make an appointment with a dermatologist who will prescribe the best course of action. If you have dark or black skin, go sooner rather than later, because acne can cause uneven pigmentation and scarring.
  
  Besides prescribing medication such as Roaccutane or vitamin-A creams, they can use micro-dermabrasion, resurfacing lasers and deep chemical peels to help with acne and scarring, but these must be done under the care of a dermatologist or plastic surgeon, with a skin-care therapist who works alongside them.

• DO use sunscreen daily
  
  It should be applied every day, even if it's cloudy outside. Why? Because when your skin is inflamed, too much sun on pimples and acne can cause permanent darkening of the marks.
  
  Use an oil-free treatment sunscreen daily, like Bioderma Photoderm Max Sun Milk SPF 50+ and La Roche Posay Anthelios SPF 50 Anti-Shine Dry Touch Gel Cream.

• DO read your labels
  
  Non-comedogenic. Found on beauty products, meaning ‘won’t block pores’, so it won’t cause pimples or blackheads. So you can also wear makeup as long as it’s not pore clogging.

• DO mask the problem
  
  Face masks contain concentrated cocktails of active ingredients designed to treat specific problems intensively and give your skin a great jump start, not to mention boosting the efficacy of products you apply afterwards. Choose what your skin needs, follow instructions carefully and don’t do it more often than once a week.
  
  For oily skin, look for key words deep cleansing, clarifying, clay or mud. These contain clays like kaolin or bentonite to absorb oil and draw out impurities, as well as antiseptic and anti-inflammatory ingredients like tea tree oil and witch hazel to treat and dry out spots.
  
  What to use: Skin Republic Anti-Spot and Pore Refining Mask, Freeman Facial Polishing Mask Charcoal & Black Sugar and L’Oréal Pure Clay Mask - Detox.
  
  Read More. Here's How to Effectively Treat Every Type of Acne (And Hide Them Too!)

3. What and What Not to Eat

• What not to eat
  
  Five foods that come up most often as culprits in increasing breakouts. Avoid these for about a week, and see if you notice a difference.
   
  • Sugar: It comes down to how much sugar you’re eating in a day—particularly at any one time. If you have a fizzy drink or an ice cream, for example, you’re likely spiking your blood sugar levels, and you could break out hours later. If you suspect sugar could be a culprit for you, try to cut back even by one sugary drink a day to notice a difference.
   
  • Junk food: For the same reasons stated above (hormonal fluctuations, blood sugar levels), junk foods are on the list to avoid if you’re trying to clear up your skin. Greasy fast food creates inflammation in the body. Inflammation leads to pimples, so if you’re going to a fast-food restaurant, choose the salad or the yogurt.
   
  • High-glycemic foods: These are foods that break down quickly in the body, triggering an insulin spike and raising blood sugar levels. They trigger hormonal fluctuations and inflammation—both of which encourage acne. We’re talking foods like white bread, processed breakfast cereals, white rice, pretzels, potato chips, cakes, etc. Choose low glycemic-index foods instead, like vegetables, whole grains, sweet potatoes, and most fruits.
   
  • Cow’s milk. Scientists aren’t yet sure why, but there are several theories. Cow’s milk spikes blood sugar, which can increase inflammation. It also increases insulin levels, which encourage the production of skin oils (sebum).
   
  • What about chocolate? There is hot debate about whether chocolate triggers acne, or helps to prevent it, with its rich dose of antioxidants. Our advice in the meantime: eat only chocolate that contains over 70% cacao (for its antioxidant), and limit yourself to one or two squares a day. If you’re acne-prone, try skipping it altogether for a couple of weeks and see if your skin improves.
    
    Read More. You Need to Know How Diet Can Actually Help Clear Your Acne

• What to eat
  
  Are there certain foods that could give you the edge against acne? Research is in its earliest stages, but we do have some knowledge of particular foods that may help. Here are five of them:
   
  • Fish or flaxseed: The typical Western diet contains too many omega-6 fatty acids, which are tied to inflammation. Eating more omega-3 fatty acids, such as those found in fatty fish, walnuts, flaxseed, and the like, can help tame inflammation and improve acne breakouts. Or take a good Omega-3 supplement like Solal Krill Oil Omega-3 Capsules.
   
  • Green tea: Studies show that green tea helps fight acne. South Korean researchers found that applying cream containing EGCG (a powerful antioxidant in green tea) to rabbit ears reduced the size of sebaceous glands, which are usually enlarged in people with acne. A test-tube follow-up study also showed that EGCG reduced sebum production. A second study on human participants found that EGCG significantly improved acne in an 8-week randomized, split-face, clinical trial.
    
    Drink more green tea throughout the day, and try applying cooled tea bags or a cloth dipped in cooled green tea to acne-prone areas of your face for 10-15 minutes.
   
  • Oysters: Several studies have indicated that the mineral zinc may reduce the effects of acne. It’s best to get zinc from your food, however, as too much in supplements (more than 100 mg a day) can result in side effects. Eat more oysters, toasted wheat germ (sprinkled on salads and steamed veggies), veal liver, roast beef, roasted pumpkin and squash seeds, and dried watermelon seeds.
   
  • Juicing: Fruits and vegetables can naturally help clear up acne. Many contain beta-carotenes, which naturally help reduce skin oils, and all are naturally anti-inflammatory. Dark, leafy greens also help clear toxins from the body, which can encourage acne. Dark-colored berries contain phytonutrients good for skin.
   
  • Probiotics: These have been found to reduce inflammation in the gut, which may help reduce acne. According to a 2011 study, intestinal microflora may affect inflammation throughout the body, which in turn, can affect acne breakouts. Previous research showed that acne patients were more likely to show reactions to bacterial strains isolated from stool—in other words, toxins from the gut were a feature of the acne skin condition.
    
    Since pre and probiotics can reduce inflammation and oxidative stress, scientists believe they may help reduce acne breakouts. “There appears to be more than enough supportive evidence to suggest that gut microbes, and the integrity of the gastrointestinal tract itself, are contributing factors in the acne process,” the scientists wrote.
    
    To get more probiotics in your diet, try yogurt, kefir, sauerkraut, dark chocolate, microalgae, miso soup, pickles, tempeh, kimchi, and kombucha tea. Or take a good quality supplement, like Biogen Pre- and Pro- Biotic 9 Strain.
   
• Last Word
  
  World-famous dermatologist Dr Nicolas Perricone advises avoiding coffee (pro-inflammatory), always eating protein first to stop a spike in blood sugar, and drinking at least eight glasses of pure spring or filtered water a day.
  
  Read More. Why You Might Need A Gut Reboot (And How to Do It)