Style Matters

Stop hopping from stylist to stylist. Find a stylist you gel with and give them a reasonable chance: Do some research - ask people whose hair you like who does their hair, have a consultation and if you feel good about the rapport and the result, you need to stick out the relationship for at least six months, unless the first meeting is a complete catastrophe. 

If you feel you need a fresh look. Speak to your stylist first rather than just swapping salons. Ask him or her if they can freshen you up with a look that's stylish, flattering, and 'you', but which also works with your lifestyle needs. 

Your lifestyle plays a huge role when it comes to your tresses, too. Shelene Shaer, master stylist and owner of Tanaz Hair, which has won the Best of Joburg for 14 years running, advises, 'Establish with your stylist how much time and money you can spend on your hair. For example, if you can only make it to the hairdresser four times a year, we have to give you a colour without regrowth. If you're going to have hair extensions, you need the time and money for maintenance.' 

If you have a bad haircut, don't go to another hairstylist to fix it. Says Shelene, 'Please give feedback when you don't like something. As hairdressers, we may see someone for years, and then suddenly they don't come back again. If you're unhappy with anything, please tell your stylist and they should do what they can to fix it. Don't worry about hurting their feelings; communication is essential. If you can't find a way to fix the problem, then you should move on.'

Budget enough time so you don’t put yourself and your stylist under pressure. Says Shelene, ‘If you’re doing a chemical service, you need to allow at least 2 to 3 hours for the proper processing time, cut and styling. If the stylist is rushed, you may both be dissatisfied with the result.’ 

Don't get stuck in a rut. Every so often, you should think about changing your style. You don't need to go for a total transformation, just change things up a little - tweak the cut or colour, to keep you fresh and up-to-date. 

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Bring examples of what you want, says Shelene. 'Bring pictures to illustrate the look you're after, so that you and your stylist know that you are talking about the same thing. Equally importantly, bring pictures of what you don't like too. It's easy to start a Pinterest board.' 

At the same time, she continues, 'Have realistic expectations.' If your hair is fine, short and curly, it's going to take a lot to give you a 'Beyoncé' head of hair - chemical treatments, hair extensions; etc. Ask yourself, 'Do I have the time and budget for this?' 

Don't fight against your natural hair texture and colour, celebrity stylist Marissa M, advises. 'Embrace what looks best on you and accept that your black hair may never be platinum blond.' 

Moisture vs oil. Tanaz Hair's Brian Warfield, a hair expert who specialises in multicultural and extremely curly hair, has advice for people with curly and African hair, 'I wish my clients had a better understanding of their own hair, and the difference between oil and moisture. Oils are more of a sealant that will seal in the moisture, but you need to add in the moisture before you seal. People use the word 'feed' to mean providing hair with what it needs. 

With natural and relaxed hair, the challenge is moisture. Curly hair is naturally dry, so it needs to be heavily moisturised. When women have a tight curl pattern, they need to find a different way to affect the texture to soften it. The only way to soften it is to add moisture. Especially for natural hair, you will have to use a moisturising treatment that penetrates down to the central cortex of the hair. Use each step to add moisture: by choosing a moisturising cleanser, a conditioner that seals in moisture, and daily moisture products. Chemically treated hair is more porous and therefore moisture penetration is easier.
 
Once you've done a moisture treatment, use light oils such as argan oil, etc., to seal in the moisture and protect.'
 
If you decide to have a precision cut, Brian advises, you need to factor in more regular visits to the salon to keep the edges clean.

Salon Etiquette

Shelene Shaer gives us the lowdown...

Coming to the salon with dirty hair. There's an old wives' tale for highlights that people need to come with dirty hair, but that comes from the days when we did highlights with caps. Now, if you've washed your hair the night before and come the next day, that's fine, but please wash your hair for anything over 2 days. 

Try not to be late. And let the salon know if you are. When people run late, it makes other people run late. Please let your stylist know so she can make a plan for the next client. The same goes for someone who arrives half an hour early. If the stylist runs 5 minutes over, then the client feels that she's been waiting for 45 minutes. 

Be honest about your financial boundaries. If you are on a strict budget, if you tell your stylist, she won't give you a high-maintenance style. 

Don't use your cellphone at the basin. Other people are paying to relax. If you're chatting away, the other person can't relax. The basin is a sacred space and some people have waited 2 months to take the time out for these 2 hours. 

Sit straight, be present and participative in the whole experience. In order to ensure that your hairdresser is going to execute what you want, get your stylist to repeat back to you what she's going to do. 

To tip or not? It's a very personal choice, but tipping has become the norm. Some people tip immediately. Some people give a gift once a year. Some tip their stylist and/or the support staff. If you've had a great hair wash and manicure, you're welcome to tip between R10 and R50, but it is not an expectation. 

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DIY Disasters - What You Should NOT Be Doing at Home

Hair Colour 

Your hair's looking a bit brassy, so you do a DIY tint with a box dye because you don't have money for a visit to the salon. Please don't, your hairdresser will plead. When you do get back to the salon, it's difficult (and expensive) for the colourist to remove the colour and give you result you want. Here is where your relationship comes in. Rather explain the situation to your stylist. Most will make a plan for you. 

If your hair is colour treated, make sure you use UV-protective products for colour-treated hair to stop the fade in summer.

 

Hair Care
 
Over-washing is the main culprit of dry, frizzy hair and washed out hair colour. Washing your hair every other day is the ideal time frame, or use one of the new cleansing conditioners once or twice a week in place of your regular shampoo. If you can't find a cleansing conditioner, then learn how to co-wash here.

Using shampoo that contains sulfates. Sulfates (or sulphates) make things foam, but they can be harsh and strip colour. Look for sulfate- and salt-free formulas for extra-gentle cleansing that won't strip hair of its natural oils, especially for colour-treated hair.

Make sure you condition your hair every time you shampoo, to keep it healthy, soft, and easy to manage. 

Find the balance. To get the right combo of both nourishment (like a protein hair mask to repair damaged hair) and moisture. Swap your conditioner for a mask once a week and alternate between hydrating and repairing treatments. Check here for tips on how to best shampoo different types of hair.  

Don't brush wet hair. Hair is much more elastic and susceptible to breakage when wet. Don't use a regular brush to detangle. Rather use a wide-toothed comb, Denman Tangle Tamer Brush or a Tangle Teezer while you're still in the shower and your hair is coated with conditioner. Start from the ends and work your way up, gently combing or brush through your conditioner.  

Avoid chlorine and salt water if you want to maintain your highlights and colour. Use a swimming cap for any swimming! It's better than faded colour or green highlights (from the chlorine reacting with the peroxide) and strawlike hair.

View Video. HAIRepair™ - CoWashing, Deep Conditioning, Moisturizing and more using HAIRepair